Hopsing Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 I'm hoping to climb the NE butt. of Slesse this coming weekend (8-16/17-03) and was wondering if anyone out there had been on the mountain recently or heard about current conditions. I'd specifically like to know the condition of the pocket glacier (I hope it's gone!) and given it's condition what the best approach to the ridge proper might be. Knowing this would help big time when it comes to gear selection (crampon? axe?, deathwish?, etc.) Is this not a good time to be anywhere near the glacier? Or is it still pretty straight forward? It would also be helpful to know approx. times for the approach and descent for a fit party of two under good weather. If there is another party out there wishing to climb it this weekend and combine forces (vehicles) with us it would make the whole shuttle business way smoother. You can email me at <climberjohn@hotmail.com> Thanks for the help. I normally don't mind figuring things out once I'm a mountain, but this sucker is many many hours drive from home. The more I know up-front, before leaving town, the better. Climb on! Hop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 It would also be helpful to know approx. times for the approach and descent for a fit party of two under good weather. It depends on how fast you are, and if you get lost like texplorer and dan ("fit party of two under good weather", well with a little fog too) and end up climbing a new route or not. i mean - some "fit and strong parties" can round trip the route in less than a day return from Squamish. other "fit and strong" parties will require a bivy or so. more if you get lost on the descent and make an illegal reentry to America. As for the pocket glacier, a few weeks ago it had almost all slipped off. there MIGHT be some ice fall danger still but there is no way you'd need crampons or an axe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopsing Posted August 14, 2003 Author Share Posted August 14, 2003 Thanks Dru. A little more info: We did complete North Ridge of Stuart in a day a few weeks ago (from Ingalls Lk and with lots of waiting behind slower parties before eventually passing, even on lower portion of ridge). We're comfortable simul-climbing most everything up to 5.6-5.7. We've had other loooong days out before like S. face of Prussik car to car, Scimitar Glacier on Glacier Peak with a 3 hour bivy, etc. I think the buttress itself we'll be doable in a day for us. I've just never been up there and don't know how time consuming the approach and descent are. We'd obviously like to hit the difficulities around first light. Is the approach doable in the dark? We also have quite a bit of experience (some of it not at all fun!) picking our way down descents after topping out late in the day. Your standard "just escaped an epic" fare. We both have solid aerobic fitness and can suffer with the best of 'em. Perhaps that brings to mind a few more helpful hints...? Thanks again for the quick reply. Hop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Summit has been in and out of cloud last 3 days. Forecast for Saturday is cvloud all day and for sunday mix of sun and cloud. Prepare for low visibility and damp holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 I am guessing Hopsing is up in the clouds on Slesse right now (socked in but not raining) but for anybody else planning to go here's how the pocket gl. looked in late July. It may be gone now. Anybody with more recent details please post, feel free to use this photo and draw lines on it showing what ice is gone or left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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