bobbyperu Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 hey y'all... wanted hopefully to pump-up those seeking a somewhat long(800'), easily acsessed, clean, challenging, exposed and way scenic rock climb with a tru variety and quality in the heart of the wa pass scene. the east face of lexington tower delivers! yesturday a friend and i headed up for a climb bf work. we chose lexi cause my buddy had never been on that face and i hadn't yet checked out the "tooth and claw" route that i have been wanting to get on ever since i rapped down over it after climbing the e.face route. we decided we would start our climb on "tooth and claw" and bust out where the 2 routes converge and finish up on the amazing upper part of the e.face rt. this link-up gives the climber 3 pitches of beautiful slab/face, and 2-3 pitches of crazy fun crack climbing, linking togeter perfectly at the top of the third pitch( here one has 2 options for a 4th pitch as the 2 routes again meet up near the base of the 5th) we chose the e.face rt. so homeboy could do the classic step across below the big roof- to the cool flake and finger crack. wacky exposure. then you get the offwidth to chimney to hands to offwidth long exposed 5th pitch. then some easy shizz and up and over the s. shoulder and down blu lake trail to the highway and car.(fuck rapping the route, and carying 2 ropes). good shit... go checkit tru variety and somethin a little different-bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 werd up e butt slut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 When were you there? Wayne and I were there Saturday. That's a super cool climb but rather a lot of offwidth I thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 ahh the wapass hooker is at it again. hopefully see ya this week.... Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 12, 2003 Author Share Posted August 12, 2003 whattup kids... natty ice come out of retirement and get your fuggin crease out to the pass and lets clamber up some shit,yeuhh... fleb, i was there on sunday. theres some offwidth yup, and with the combo alot of other good stuff too... did you find the offwidth above the alcove to be thrashy, or were you able to use all the lovely little features around, and style it? well either way you get what you came for right? tons of good stuff around and more to be discoverd as well... -bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Styled that actually, short and entertaining fat ow overhanging face climbing mix, but got a bit fed up with the lower angle ow further up. You know, after the tenth time going yay-this-is-the-last-of-it things got a bit old. Superb route, you just have to know how to climb that stuff to really appreciate it I think. One of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 12, 2003 Author Share Posted August 12, 2003 the upper offwidth is nice an exposed tho huh? did you guys do the e.face rt. lower pitches or the tooth and claw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 I have no idea how we started that thing. I beat Wayne with the #4 Camalot until he let me lead the first pitch, then promptly got lost somewhere on those slabs. I was to the right of the east face route but left of Tooth and Claw I think. The most interesting bit was a sidepull move with steep slab for feet and flagging my left hand, with a good yellow camalot 30' below and to the right. I didn't dare do it until I found an orange TCU placement about 10' to my right. In retrospect that was so crappy I might as well have stuck the cam in my ear, but it felt very reassuring at the time. But we were on route on the east face from the 5.8 crack pitch and up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 good climb(s). how are the bolts holding up on t&c? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 19, 2003 Author Share Posted August 19, 2003 the bolts on tooth and claw provide much inspiration to not peel... some are good some spin somemay have been upgraded since the fa, they are placed at reasonable stances, amd not too run-out for bolted on lead hard slab climbs. really beautiful climbing on that root, and if u go take a camera... bella!-bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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