Travis Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Just got back from a fantastic tour of the classic routes in the Bugs. We did McTech Arete, Kain Route on Bugaboo and the W. Ridge of Pigeon. I'll be comparing everything to Bugs quality granite now, so I'm fucked. Weather has been super stable for weeks so the hut was a zoo around the weekends but there is plenty of room for everyone on the climbs. Getting up a bit early will get you to most routes before anyone else. By the time you get there, they will have the new elaho guide to the area at the hut (to buy), they currently have a printer's proof that's getting a lot of use and is very accurate, showing new rap chains and better descent beta. It makes the new "Bugaboo Rock" look like crap, and I gather the new edition was rushed out in order to beat the elaho guide to press The condition of the glacier to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is deteriorating fast. There is bare ice, the bridge over the schrund is going fast and (more worrisome) the crevasse at the bottom is opening up. Last week we saw a couple of postholes into the abyss that were made late in the afternoon; by unroped parties The Applebee and Boulder campgrounds are open and being used for 5 bucks Cdn. The Applebee will save you some slogging before and after the vast majority of climbs but the Boulder camp is nicer with more private sites and softer tent pads. The hut is heavily booked, so get a reservation and bring your receipt. The system of telling the custodian who's coming is imperfect so he may not know how many reservations he's got. The hut contains all cooking/eating utensiles, and has a toaster and coffee maker (bring basket filters and be prepared to hike out the grinds) but no microwave. The electricity goes out a lot, (every night) but there is propane stove and lighting so it's no problem. (so don't bring a stove, pots, cups, forks spoons etc.) We arrived without chicken wire, but got the last available so I might be tempted to bring my own. Once we hiked out there was a car load of day hikers who required our parking spot and our chicken wire. As for the climbing, it's stellar but busy on the popular lines. Looking over from a few pitches up McTech we saw about 10 parties on the NE Ridge of Bugaboo. There were no fewer than 15 people on the west ridge of Pigeon (midweek) when we were there but we were ahead of everyone so get up early and you'll have no problems. We did the Kain route on Wednesday, started early and only saw one other party, but that one will bottleneck at the gendarme pitch so I'd go very early if it's busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 thanks Travis, that is so useful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolanr Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 I don't think you even have to worry about chickenwire if you're in and out in a day. The porkies are nocturnal, eh? They have the same problem over in Kokanee Glacier Prov. Park, and let me tell you the chickenwire did not keep those persistent little bastards off of my car. They just crashed right thru it, I had to shoo a couple of them off in the middle of the night while doing an illegal car bivi at the TH (Gibson Lake). Death to quill clad ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 It's hard to imagine how and why you would be in and out of the bugs in a day?? unless maybe you live in Spillimacheen...? nice TR. made me highly jealous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolanr Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 The post said something about a carload of day hikers. I actually ran into quite a few people that were in and out in a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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