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ryland_moore

Sahale Glacier a good girlfriend route?

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Was thinking about taking my girlfriend up the Sahale Glacier/South Side Route for her first "alipne" climb and glacier "slog". Anyone done this beofre? It looks a little benign from a climber's perspective but maybe a good intro for a sport climber girlfriend whose never worn crampons or used an ice axe before? We would also try and spend the night at the Moraine as she is definately used to Smith Rock type approaches.

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as a veteran of many failed relationships i can say with high accuracy that you are entering a world of pain. you want a girlfriend alpine climb? take her to lake louise in canada and hike up to the teahouse. hear what im sayin?

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The swingin' JUGS are COOL grin.gif

but I don't think that was the answer you wanted.

 

The Sahale Glacier would be a nice walk for someone new to the Alpine scene. Exit to the right of the summit block off the glacier and work your way to the back side for an easy scramble to the summit.

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She wanted to hike and camp up at the Moraine after talking to a friend of hers who did it last weekend. I am just wondering if it is worth me carrying a rope, a few pieces and the like up there in case she wants to climb higher. How long can it be from the moraine to the summit? An hour or two?

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Moraine to summit, maybe 1 hour, never seen any need for a rope on the glacier, as for the exposure on the summit, not much on the north side. No rock pro would be needed. Just a scramble. If you're up on the moraine, I wouldn't pass up the summit. The views from Sahale rate up there as one of the best in the state.

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Also,

From what I can remember when I did the NF of Buckner a couple of years ago, you can skirt the right side of the glacier and stay on the rocks to avoid roping up.

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I kinda thought the summit was a bit exposed and while you may not want the rope, I'd bring a small one for her in case. I wouldn't bother with any pro though...

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one time i had 3 girlfriends at once, I took one of them up this route while the other ones were at home, i say go for it, bring the rope just in case she wants to rap off

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I also think that once you get to the trailhead, you should point at J-berg and tell her that's what you're climbing today...
The North Face, right? yellaf.gif

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gapertimmy said:

one time i had 3 girlfriends at once, I took one of them up this route while the other ones were at home, i say go for it, bring the rope just in case she wants to rap off

 

there are other uses for rope than rappelling too smirk.gif

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That's a perfect climb for an alpine newbie. The nice surroundings will at least give you something to look at to keep your interest up. I'd take a light rope, as the exposure at the summit rocks (I think it's only 3rd class?) still might be enough to scare a newbie. From the moraine, the climb is super quick, might as well finish it off, plus she then gets to say she's walked a glacier, which is cool for some peeps.

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lummox said:

as a veteran of many failed relationships i can say with high accuracy that you are entering a world of pain. you want a girlfriend alpine climb? take her to lake louise in canada and hike up to the teahouse. hear what im sayin?

 

I gotta agree with you here. I've come to the conclusion that trying to force my hobbies on others, whether a girlfriend or just a buddy, never seems to work. The problem is the things that I generally seem to fall for in girls don't often coincide with climbing interests. I guess I like typical 'city girls' or something. I guess I've sort of accepted that having seperate interests isn't that bad.

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ryland_moore said:

We would also try and spend the night at the Moraine as she is definately used to Smith Rock type approaches.

 

ryland_moore mentions about Smith Rocks so it sounds like she has been doing something but your right.

Don't push anything on a relationship. My dream date is a women that climbs but has her own thing going also. Sometimes I just want to get away and climb with the boys. thumbs_up.gif

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Agreed. SHe just isn't into alpine climbing. She likes sport climbing and has even toprpoed some nice 100 ft. ice flows down in Lee Vining Canyon on a rest day away from Owens River GOrge and bouldering. SHe's asked me about alpine before, but has heard horror stories of death marches and devil's club and really isn't interested. Just thought I could give her a glimpse of what is out there and a little of why we do it (the views for one) without her having to go through something like trying to get into a "real" alpine experience.

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Sahale will give you the best alpine experience. The trail will take you right to the glacier, glacier is short and the summit block is minimal. Enjoy.

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Sahale was the first "climb" I did in the Cascades, before I knew what climbing was. I hiked up there and there was a group of Mazamas on the route. Seeing my eager eyes, they allowed me to attach a sling to my belt shocked.gif and I used their ropeline to go up. The ridge is fairly low angled, but exposed, as I recall. There was a move to the right up about a 4 1/2 foot step. There was a long sling there at the time, but since this was 1987, it may not be any good anymore. The glacier slog isn't, it's quite short. I'm not sure I'd even call this an alpine climb. However, the scenery IS spectacular, and you'll need a permit to camp on the moraine.

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JoshK said:

lummox said:

as a veteran of many failed relationships i can say with high accuracy that you are entering a world of pain. you want a girlfriend alpine climb? take her to lake louise in canada and hike up to the teahouse. hear what im sayin?

 

I gotta agree with you here. I've come to the conclusion that trying to force my hobbies on others, whether a girlfriend or just a buddy, never seems to work. The problem is the things that I generally seem to fall for in girls don't often coincide with climbing interests. I guess I like typical 'city girls' or something. I guess I've sort of accepted that having seperate interests isn't that bad.

yea. and ive come to the conclusion that i lose girlfriends when i start complaining bout how fuckin lameass lazy they are and to hurry the fuck up cuz speed is safety and to stop bitching bout the exposure. i dont mix pleasures anymore. i dont even take women fishing wit me. i just tell them girls 'its called testosterone. deal with it and shut the fuck up.'

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I don't quite have the same ability as you do Lummox regarding fishing, as she grew up in Florida fishing for permit, snook, bonefish, and tarpon and can double haul an 8 weight a good 30 yds. farther than I can!

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ryland_moore said:

Agreed. SHe just isn't into alpine climbing. She likes sport climbing and has even toprpoed some nice 100 ft. ice flows down in Lee Vining Canyon on a rest day away from Owens River GOrge and bouldering. SHe's asked me about alpine before, but has heard horror stories of death marches and devil's club and really isn't interested. Just thought I could give her a glimpse of what is out there and a little of why we do it (the views for one) without her having to go through something like trying to get into a "real" alpine experience.

 

Sahale is good for that. I would take a rope though. If its as broken up as when I did it, it might be nice to have so you can short rope her down a steep snow slope if the crevasses are yawning.

 

Despite what everyone else is saying, I think there is plenty of proof out there that wimmin take to alpine climbing, given enough time, good climbs, and teaching from someone other than a SO.

 

If you really want her to like alpine climbing, I suggest you start off with easy alpine rock climbs on good clean granite, with less or even zero snow work, and go from there. Tuolumne, Washington Pass, Bugaboos, Wind River Range, Tetons, the like. It will be the closest to normal if she has already climbed rock before...just climbing in the mountains is all. Prussik Peak W Ridge is great for that. So is Ingalls etc. If she likes that stuff, then you can do more mixed things afterwards. I just think that the Cascades are a bit on the grunt side for anyone to like them as a lasting introduction, especially if the girl isnt really into the approach aspect of it initially

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another option with less driving would be mtn daniel..tho you dont get the famous boston bason peaks, it is a nice outing and you wll see considerably less people and wont have to fight for bivi or even deal with the tool at all! all so spectacle lake to the lemahs(see klar404's recent pics) is another amazing area!

 

 

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Hmmm, I dunno Lummox. Where was your lazy ass when I went car to car on Olympus, the N. Ridge of Stuart (upper), Serpentine Arete, etc in a day? Different days that is laugh.gif There's some gals out there gonna smoke your butt, boy. And that was about 10 years ago, who knows what they are doing now??? Obviously, not you.

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kklimber said:

Hmmm, I dunno Lummox. Where was your lazy ass when I went car to car on Olympus, the N. Ridge of Stuart (upper), Serpentine Arete, etc in a day? Different days that is laugh.gif There's some gals out there gonna smoke your butt, boy. And that was about 10 years ago, who knows what they are doing now??? Obviously, not you.

 

ive done all those in a day(cept that boring snow slog olympus) and i am fat.....i dont see your point!! and anyways u gotta start from the bottom not half way up!

 

fruit.gif

 

whos know! i am bizzzzzzzzaked!

 

boxing_smiley.gifsnaf.gifHCL.gifbigdrink.gif

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You ain't Lummox and the point is obvious.

 

boring snow slog. . . hehe. . .if you weren't so fat, it wouldn't be such a slog.

 

But enough of this silliness, I'm taking my svelte body outta here.

 

 

wave.gifwave.gifwave.gif

 

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