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dryad

First leads

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I'd like to nominate the corner crack on Hammerhead Rock in Leavenworth (5.6) for the list of routes that are good for doing one's first trad lead. It's short, it's easy, it can be toproped if you want that security blanket, and it happily swallows up any and all gear that you can toss at it. You can place something every 2 feet if you wanted to. Heck, there's even a rock horn you can sling.

 

Other suggestions?

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City Park at Index. Bomber finger locks and good feet the whole way. Why if it was in Indian Creek it would have line ups sending it EVERY DAY hahaha.gif

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at smitty:

lycopodophyta + lame crack to right

1st pitch of spiderman

1st pitch of moscow

any pitch of superslab

in/out of harms way

 

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Those 5.4 cracks by the power lines at Murrin Park.

5.0 chimney at the Summit Wall at Mt. Erie.

XY Crack ,5.5, at Leavenworth.

5.0 corner at Bruces Boulder.

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iain said:

at smitty:

lycopodophyta + lame crack to right

1st pitch of spiderman

1st pitch of moscow

any pitch of superslab

in/out of harms way

And the rest of Moscow as well.

What about Cinammon slab?

That's pretty easy.

Maybe for sport, Shamu? one hard (kinda) move right off the ground and then a walk up.

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The 2nd pitch on the Lizard. The fist crack is a pain for a first lead. It was my first lead and crack experiance. Never knew that there was a super easy route called the Great Northern Slab that feels alot easier that it's rateing.

 

Pixie Corner in Squamish is a good first lead.

 

If you have never touched a crack you might want to do something like G.N.S. or stuff everywhere in squamish.

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bunglehead said:

iain said:

at smitty:

lycopodophyta + lame crack to right

1st pitch of spiderman

1st pitch of moscow

any pitch of superslab

in/out of harms way

And the rest of Moscow as well.

What about Cinammon slab?

That's pretty easy.

Maybe for sport, Shamu? one hard (kinda) move right off the ground and then a walk up.

I agree with lycophodyte and the other crack next to it. Also what is the route next to shamu on the arete?? I have been told it is a 10a, but this seems wrong. I would rate it a .9. Another great lead on sport on the rope de dope is the far right arete with the roof. That roof has huge jugs so you can hang it out and beat you chest and s*&t bigdrink.gif Also a great test piece for sport is the planet luxery on the mesa verde wall. It is a 100 ft pitch that is like a ski ramp, first ten feet 5.7, next 5.8 ...... till last ten feet is a 10c arete lye back to anchors "best route at smiffy??"

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iain said:

at smitty:

lycopodophyta + lame crack to right

 

I really like that lame crack called Rabbit Stew. My first trad lead at Smith. Sucks up nuts and hexes like a dream.

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Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too.

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bunglehead said:

Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too.

 

Or you can miss the step right and run it out 509 feet to the anchor... and rip off a big hold near the top and teeter back and forth on the brink of falling off figuring out how different tuff is from granite thumbs_up.gif

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bunglehead said:

Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too.

or you can climb them both together because they are so close wink.gif

 

uh ya... I'm gunna lead thos some day laugh.gif

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Dru said:

bunglehead said:

Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too.

 

Or you can miss the step right and run it out 509 feet to the anchor... and rip off a big hold near the top and teeter back and forth on the brink of falling off figuring out how different tuff is from granite thumbs_up.gif

 

yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif

That's good. 509 feet! Hey Dru, if you're popping holds at Smith and running pitches out, you're getting the Full Value Locals Package. Tuff. LOVE IT! You guys in Washy and Canada are so spoiled with all yer Granite.

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actually I think both that lycopodophyta are uninspiring climbs but they are easy and take gear whenever. in fact maybe they are bad first leads since you can pick any nut size and drag it down the crack and it will be truck stop.

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