dryad Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 I'd like to nominate the corner crack on Hammerhead Rock in Leavenworth (5.6) for the list of routes that are good for doing one's first trad lead. It's short, it's easy, it can be toproped if you want that security blanket, and it happily swallows up any and all gear that you can toss at it. You can place something every 2 feet if you wanted to. Heck, there's even a rock horn you can sling. Other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 Laughing crack, Klahanie crack, both in Squamish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 City Park at Index. Bomber finger locks and good feet the whole way. Why if it was in Indian Creek it would have line ups sending it EVERY DAY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 at smitty: lycopodophyta + lame crack to right 1st pitch of spiderman 1st pitch of moscow any pitch of superslab in/out of harms way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Those 5.4 cracks by the power lines at Murrin Park. 5.0 chimney at the Summit Wall at Mt. Erie. XY Crack ,5.5, at Leavenworth. 5.0 corner at Bruces Boulder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 iain said: at smitty: lycopodophyta + lame crack to right 1st pitch of spiderman 1st pitch of moscow any pitch of superslab in/out of harms way And the rest of Moscow as well. What about Cinammon slab? That's pretty easy. Maybe for sport, Shamu? one hard (kinda) move right off the ground and then a walk up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 The 2nd pitch on the Lizard. The fist crack is a pain for a first lead. It was my first lead and crack experiance. Never knew that there was a super easy route called the Great Northern Slab that feels alot easier that it's rateing. Pixie Corner in Squamish is a good first lead. If you have never touched a crack you might want to do something like G.N.S. or stuff everywhere in squamish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzack Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Also at smith: 2nd Pitch of SkyRidge. rabbit stew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 bunglehead said: iain said: at smitty: lycopodophyta + lame crack to right 1st pitch of spiderman 1st pitch of moscow any pitch of superslab in/out of harms way And the rest of Moscow as well. What about Cinammon slab? That's pretty easy. Maybe for sport, Shamu? one hard (kinda) move right off the ground and then a walk up. I agree with lycophodyte and the other crack next to it. Also what is the route next to shamu on the arete?? I have been told it is a 10a, but this seems wrong. I would rate it a .9. Another great lead on sport on the rope de dope is the far right arete with the roof. That roof has huge jugs so you can hang it out and beat you chest and s*&t Also a great test piece for sport is the planet luxery on the mesa verde wall. It is a 100 ft pitch that is like a ski ramp, first ten feet 5.7, next 5.8 ...... till last ten feet is a 10c arete lye back to anchors "best route at smiffy??" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 iain said: at smitty: lycopodophyta + lame crack to right I really like that lame crack called Rabbit Stew. My first trad lead at Smith. Sucks up nuts and hexes like a dream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 bunglehead said: Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too. Or you can miss the step right and run it out 509 feet to the anchor... and rip off a big hold near the top and teeter back and forth on the brink of falling off figuring out how different tuff is from granite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 bunglehead said: Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too. or you can climb them both together because they are so close uh ya... I'm gunna lead thos some day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Dru said: bunglehead said: Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too. Or you can miss the step right and run it out 509 feet to the anchor... and rip off a big hold near the top and teeter back and forth on the brink of falling off figuring out how different tuff is from granite That's good. 509 feet! Hey Dru, if you're popping holds at Smith and running pitches out, you're getting the Full Value Locals Package. Tuff. LOVE IT! You guys in Washy and Canada are so spoiled with all yer Granite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 509? i guess that must have been what it felt like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 actually I think both that lycopodophyta are uninspiring climbs but they are easy and take gear whenever. in fact maybe they are bad first leads since you can pick any nut size and drag it down the crack and it will be truck stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 snoboy said: Klahanie crack, both in Squamish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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