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freesoloing in squamish


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lummox said:

you break something falling while freesoloing during the first days for your long roadtrip you gonna look like an asshole.

 

thanks for your concern. i hadn't thought about that. rolleyes.gif i'm not out to kill myself or freak people out; i just find freesoloing a very fun and empowering activity. and i'm pretty picky about what i get on ...

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During our family trip to Squamish on the Fourth weekend, I couldn't stand being so close to the candy but not eat, so a couple of mornings I got up early as hell (< 5am) and skeedaddled out to the crags to do a couple hours of climbing before the rugratz woke up (don't worry, my wife was there with them).

 

Anyway, one day I headed out to the Smoke Bluffs, and had fun exploring/soloing stuff. I know you're not supposed to go out there early in the morning out of deference to the homeowners right nearby, but I figured since I was alone and being quiet it would be OK. Also, I tried to stay mostly away from the houses.

 

Anway, it was a good time. Pretty weird to take a tour of the Smoke Bluffs and see NOONE!

 

Introduced myself to Octopus's Garden. That place is cool (though I couldn't push myself to solo up over the bulges, I had fun climbing halfway up and down a bunch of those splitters). I was saddened to hear that that place is usually toprope hell (f**kn topropers boxing_smiley.gif).

 

Cat Crack was cool and there's this excellent finger crack on the far right edge of the far right side of Neat And Cool. It's only about 8m high, so you're only in bad fall zone about half the climb, and all the jams are lockers. thumbs_up.gif

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dunno ... maybe if you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it?

 

without being to wishywashy my experience had always been the climbs telling ME that it's ok for me to solo them, rather than the other way.

 

the guidebook makes it pretty clear relatively how hard climbs are and how to approach and descent ... although it also contains misleading errors and inconsistencies.

 

maybe this thread has a more subtle motive though anyways ... dunno

 

have fun wave.gif

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fern said:

dunno ... maybe if you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it?

 

i'm not asking if i *should* be doing it. i already do it. i'm asking if anybody has any routes to recommend. i can read and look around and talk to the rocks. that's all good. i have some favorites that i'd be happy to share with others if they ask; i'm just asking for some other people's favorites. i'm not going to do them just 'cause they say they're good, but i would like to check them out. that's all. for crying out loud!!! moon.gif

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good easy squamish solos

 

banana peel

calculus crack

fern gully crag - up the right side down the left

sugarloaf - the whole thing

cat crack

sphinxter quits

up cat crack down corn flakes

up wisecrack or burgers & fries - down dusty eyes

pixie corner

davy jones locker

up & down klahanie crack

easter island

salamander

alexis cracks is all good but don't top-out

wakey wakey

earth trip

ferrets folly

jug slab - all routes

bottom line

sunshine chimney south

all the routes on ravens castle

klahanie crack up & down

 

bigdrink.gif

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