D-dog Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 (edited) Heya folks, I'm seeking advice from anyone who is familiar with the NE Buttress Slesse route. Specifically, I'd like to track down beta on traversing into the buttress from the East and then downclimbing/rapping to the bivy ledge. I've done all the requisite Becky and topo research, now looking for firsthand data if possible. I'm hopeful though not 100% sure that there is an exitpoint around the altitude at which the ledge sits, exiting to the South. However, I am a lazy shit with lots of broken pieces and if I can sneak onto the buttress without doing the bottom pitches, that'd be ok for my broken-up BASE body! Advice regarding this plan? Yes, I am competent traversing alpine terrain up to around 5.9-ish unroped so long as it's not wet mossy slabs or scary dark offwidths! Edited to add: this is the line I am trying to describe: Many thanks in advance. Peace, D-d0g Edited July 30, 2003 by D-dog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 Maybe what you want is here. Or maybe it's here. Or maybe it's nowhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 there is no "exit point" you can "traverse in on" from the "east or south" unless you can solo A3+ nailing. the only places you can get on it are via the summit and a rap in, or via the bypass approach and a climb of ~8 pitches (yes, mossy and wet in places) up to 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 Latest 2003 rumor is that the pocket glacier is bypassable. Which means you can approach it via other means. If that is true - then I recommend going to the Propller Cairn then dropping down on grass and heather slopes below the East Buttress and then up through trees and bushes --- really easy to the spot. I am not sure about the amount of the pocket glacier that has slid but if it's enough then only sneakers are required maximum to get to the bypass route start- the one I took when I knew how to rock climb. Otherwise if you follow my directions then the glacier will present itself in good form as soon as you get there and you will be forced to deal with it. If I was to go for it tomorrow - I would not bring anything more than sneakers based upon reports. Go early so shit doesnt fall on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-dog Posted July 30, 2003 Author Share Posted July 30, 2003 (edited) Cpt.Caveman said: Latest 2003 rumor is that the pocket glacier is bypassable. Which means you can approach it via other means. If that is true - then I recommend going to the Propller Cairn then dropping down on grass and heather slopes below the East Buttress and then up through trees and bushes --- really easy to the spot. Thanks - this is sort of what my theory was and I was not sure if it would actually work or not. I'll likely head out there and see how the snow conditions are, one way or another. Attached is the photo I'm using to visualize the approach, with a totally ghetto arrow painted on to show what I think is the most likely exitpoint. Peace, D-d0g Edited July 30, 2003 by D-dog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 which side are you going to jump off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Ddog those are the Beckey ledges on the north side. You still have to climb a 5.8+ pitch to get to the bivi ledge you want to launch from. Not to mention, to get to the beckey ledges from the north, you would have to somehow solo up the heart of darkness couloir - not an option in summer. not really an option in winter either which is why its still unclimbed (although mostly for an overhanging rock step which never ices up according to the legend) but you could probably launch direct from the summit down the e face no? if not I have a totally vertical to overhanging 2200' face for you to jump with a 3 hr 3rd class approach. more info on tuesday next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Like they said, get up on the buttress and out of the gulleys early, there is a lot of stuff coming down now when the sun hits its. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 The southwest buttress would be an easy solo to the summit. Then you could exitpoint from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 If you are comfortable soloing 5.9 just climb the route up to the ledge and have at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-dog Posted July 30, 2003 Author Share Posted July 30, 2003 Dru said: Ddog those are the Beckey ledges on the north side. You still have to climb a 5.8+ pitch to get to the bivi ledge you want to launch from. Not to mention, to get to the beckey ledges from the north, you would have to somehow solo up the heart of darkness couloir - not an option in summer. not really an option in winter either which is why its still unclimbed (although mostly for an overhanging rock step which never ices up according to the legend) Not to be too idiotic about it, but can I get to the Beckey ledges (above the Heart of Darkness) from the S? Up over Connection Pass? Or is the downclimb around and above the Heart of Darkness totally gnarly when approached like this? In other words, if one were climbing the regular route and bailed after around 1500 feet of climbing, would one simply rap down or is there an escape out over Connection Pass that I could reverse to get to the ledges? but you could probably launch direct from the summit down the e face no? Well, that'd be seriously pimp but I am doubting that the entire E face from summit down is vertical. You've been there however, so what do you think? If you threw a rock from the summit, would it hit at the bottom of the face or would it bounce 100 times down before hitting bottom? Not that I'm planning to throw rocks about, but that's the key metric in terms of jumpability. if not I have a totally vertical to overhanging 2200' face for you to jump with a 3 hr 3rd class approach. more info on tuesday next week Now that sounds like fun, for sure! Peace, D-d0g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 In other words, if one were climbing the regular route and bailed after around 1500 feet of climbing, would one simply rap down or is there an escape out over Connection Pass that I could reverse to get to the ledges? yes, one would have to rappell off to get off. ask me, i've done it! the E face is pretty steep the whole way however you might have to downclimb or rap a pitch or two from the summit as it eases off slightly. but its gonna be a lot easier to check out when you are up there. ...actually it looks less than vertical on the cover of the mclane book ... however i have seen rocks free fall from the bivi ledge so if you can make it to there somehow you are golden... i'd say your best bet is either to climb to the ledge with another jumper and both jump, or draft with a party of 2 as far as the ledge then bid them adieu... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-dog Posted July 30, 2003 Author Share Posted July 30, 2003 Dru said: i'd say your best bet is either to climb to the ledge with another jumper and both jump, or draft with a party of 2 as far as the ledge then bid them adieu... Thanks again - that pretty much settles it in my book. No easy way to "traverse in," so I'll just plan for the climb up which is certainly not a bad outcome! Hmm, anyone out there have firm plans to head up the NE buttress in the next few weeks? Peace, D-D0g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Thanks - this is sort of what my theory was and I was not sure if it would actually work or not. I'll likely head out there and see how the snow conditions are, one way or another. That's pretty easy to do. You can walk up there the afternoon before and take a look from the Memorial Site with a set of binoculars or even the naked eye. Have fun jumping. I am guessing best bet is down the East Face? I can't see the ghetto arrow due to so small of an image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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