Jump to content

Ptarmigan Traverse


jbclimber

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 25
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

while Fri was an OK travel day, Sat it rained until about 11am. We decided that we could get to White Rock Lakes with the time we still had Sat, but we were not sure about getting all the way to Itswoot. We wanted Dome, but also wanted to set up for a manageable day Sun with the car shuttle. We figured going from WRL all the way out Sunday was a pretty big unknown b/c of the potential for getting lost maybe doing the schwack in the dark. It was an extremely tough decision to turn around and retrace, but all of us thought it was a good one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, we ended up being forced to make that exact same decision. Ours was made easier by the fact that we were dropped off at cascade pass road so we didn't have a car on both ends. We ended up pushing through weather from Yang-Yang to WRL, then doing the mega day from WRL, up to the summit of dome, and all the way out. It's tiring...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thumbs_up.gif We came out on 7/19 and had a great time. No problems to report, everything is pretty straightforward. We ended up climbing Formidable, LeConte, Sentinel, Spire Point, and Dome. All had great views, but some were a bit on the loose side (we went up the standard routes on all). Watch out for the marmots at White Rock Lakes, they're fiesty!! We took 7 days total, which was very nice and leisurely. We had enough time for a full day of R&R at WRL and another full day to climb Dome (we spent 4 hours on the summit, lounging in the sun and admiring the view). It was a bit crowded for us (~18 people on the trip between 4 parties), but still lived up to its reputation. Have fun!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm interested in doing the ptarmigan traverse this (late) summer in 2 or 3 days. Are you guys talking about a 3-day traverse, or am I reading wrong? If so, how are the conditions this year for such a push? Is there any other places to read up on advice for this type of attempt?

 

Thanks,

NAT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nat said:

I'm interested in doing the ptarmigan traverse this (late) summer in 2 or 3 days. Are you guys talking about a 3-day traverse, or am I reading wrong? If so, how are the conditions this year for such a push? Is there any other places to read up on advice for this type of attempt?

 

Thanks,

NAT

 

Why would you want to push it.

So many mountains to climb!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We did 6 days in 1997. Did most of them along the way.

Formidable, La Conte, Sentinal, Spire Point and Dome. We tried a unplanned Spider attempt after doing Formidable that same day but ran out of light and had to retreat just a few hundred feet from the summit. Should have bivy'd.

I'd say a week is perfect for this trip unless your just going to backpack it.

If I went back I would get Spider, walk over the Lizard, Old Guard, Sinister, Agnes, Gun Sight and then walk out Agnes Creek to Stehekin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did not ask for opinions of my plan, nor did I ask anyone to try to convice me otherwise. For me and my party, doing it in any more than three days is not an option. Therefore, I am still looking for information regarding conditions both this year overall, and this coming month in specific for a fast traverse. Including information about specific peaks to climb along the way is helpful.

 

Thanks,

NAT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nat said:

I did not ask for opinions of my plan, nor did I ask anyone to try to convice me otherwise. For me and my party, doing it in any more than three days is not an option. Therefore, I am still looking for information regarding conditions both this year overall, and this coming month in specific for a fast traverse. Including information about specific peaks to climb along the way is helpful.

 

Thanks,

NAT

 

Cool down dude! madgo_ron.gif

You're here, you're going to get opinions up the Yang Yang. (I guess that's a Ptarmigan Pun).

Again my opinion, 3 days...........

"Close your eyes and run like hell through the traverse."

That's all you'll have time to do.

 

1st Day: Run like hell to Yang Yang Lakes (no peaks)

 

2nd Day: Run like hell to Cub Lake (no peaks)

 

3rd Day: Run like hell down Bachlor Creek and out Denny Creek (no peaks).

 

That's your TR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey - how about this? I've got five days and a wake-up to work with, and no car shuttle. I'm with you on the need to climb some of the peaks, but I also want to scout the joint so I can bring my son next year. And I'll be alone. Can I have fun and survive all at the same time, or should I turn my attention elsewhere?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nat said:

I'm interested in doing the ptarmigan traverse this (late) summer in 2 or 3 days. Are you guys talking about a 3-day traverse, or am I reading wrong? If so, how are the conditions this year for such a push? Is there any other places to read up on advice for this type of attempt?

 

Thanks,

NAT

 

Yes, there was a thread on this very topic that I started last summer, asking the same questions. At the time I was planning on just doing the traverse, no peaks, in 2 days or less. Ultimately, I went and tried it for myself this past July with a 3-day window.

 

The traverse is easily done in 3 days with no peaks and good weather. You can get to Yang Yang or further on day 1. If you want to go further, you must get to WRL or you will not have easy water. Yang Yang in 1 day was very manageable, about 9 hours from the car moving a little slow.

 

I know you don't want to hear this, but in retrospect everyone who told me to take more time was right: this traverse is awesome, and it was really fun travelling fast; but the next time I go I want to take 5-6 days and climb some of the fantastic peaks along the way. It is worth the vacation time, totally worth it.

 

Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a three-day traverse, if you want to climb peaks, it may be best to camp away from the lakes. For example, you could camp the first night at Spider-Formidable col after climbing one of the peaks near Cache col (e.g. Magic). The second night you could camp below Sentinel Peak on the edge of Le Conte glacier after climbing peaks such as Le Conte, Sentinel and Old Guard. The last day you could climb Spire Point on your way to the Bachelor Creek trail. This is a reasonable itinerary for an energetic party.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ncascademtns said:

Doing the Traverse solo in my opinion is not an option.

You have 5 glaciers to cross and falling into an ice box unroped is not going to do you any good. frown.gif

 

 

OK - I knew there were glaciers on the route, but it sounds like these are Glaciers - worthy of respect at any time of year. Thanks - I'll wait for my son to become available... With no car shuttle, I'd pretty much assumed there wasn't enough time anyway, and there are lots of other things to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I did do the traverse, and it was great! The only problem encountered was a huge party of 11 from Olympia (mainly). This is way too many climbers to have in one party in an area like this. Not exactly low impact and very inconsiderate, especially when they set up their freakin camp right next to you!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...