catbirdseat Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 We had a large group with some people who hadn't climbed Rainier before. It was decided to take three days. We would take a day off before going to the summit on the third day, well rested. On our rest day the wind blew in gusts up to 60 mph at Emmons flat and knocked down some tents. A whole bunch of people were up on the mountain that day. The summit had a cloud over it. Only a few managed to top out. That afternoon the wind let up and the lenticular disappeared. Puffy clouds appeared below us. We were in luck. The gang was so gung ho that we left at 10:15 pm, which was a good idea because it was really hot on Monday. One fellow decided to turn around not far from camp. He just didn't do well at altitude on this trip. After that we had a series of headlamp failures. Several needed new batteries and one just shorted out, eating several sets of batteries. Fortunately we had one extra headlamp. We toped out at 6:30 am and spent a pleasant hour and half on the summit. We were back in camp by 11:30 am. I was amazed at how long the Emmons route is this year. It traverses to the right forever until it reaches the saddle between Columbia Crest and Russell Cliffs. The traverse was so long that my left arm was getting tired from hefting the ice axe with nary a traverse. There is a reason why its proper name is Emmons-Winthrop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 We climbed on the 20th and it was a bit windy up top, then whiteout and rime ice all over us. Yes indeed the route was a little longer than normal, but it was nice to check out the terrain in the saddle. Great day in the mountains and we didn't see anyone else on top.....I think everyone turned around????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncascademtns Posted July 28, 2003 Share Posted July 28, 2003 Excellent work CBS! The cat has left the seat. Must be lookin' for a bird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 29, 2003 Author Share Posted July 29, 2003 Having seen the topography with my own eyes, I can better understand the predicament that Mountaineer party was in last month. They were trapped in that saddle with the wind howling like a banshee and threatening to blow them into the bergschrund. The snow bridge is small and it is understandable how it might be hard to find in really bad visibility. If you run along the schrund blindly, you actually have to go back uphill to reach the bridge, which would be quite counterintuitive. They may have stopped just short of reaching it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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