Jump to content

Pro for flaring cracks?


Farrgo

Recommended Posts

Is there such a thing? I was trying a lead at broughton bluff on the spring, and I put a cam in a flaring crack (which was the only place to put pro within the first 20-25 feet) and it held body weight but didn't look like it would hold a fall because the cam heads were tilted back. then when i started to climb above it, i walked it out of the crack. I understand this last issue was probably because i should have attached a longer sling or q-draw to the cam instead of just a biner. but does anybody have some suggestions on how to protect flaring cracks, or do you just run it out?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That'd be "PWPIAD", not "POD". Anyways, imagine a pea pod, space alien pod, or other pod-shaped thingus, and apply this shape to your average gap-in-the-rock, aka "crack", and you got your pod, i.e. a pod-shaped feature, usu. in a crack.

 

And, according to 'The Cam Book' from Wild Country, if a cam holds body weight in a flare, it'll probably hold a whipper, since cams dig in more the harder you tug on 'em. Don't argue with DFA, just read 'The Cam Book' and see for yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

That'd be "PWPIAD", not "POD". Anyways, imagine a pea pod, space alien pod, or other pod-shaped thingus, and apply this shape to your average gap-in-the-rock, aka "crack", and you got your pod, i.e. a pod-shaped feature, usu. in a crack.

 

And, according to 'The Cam Book' from Wild Country, if a cam holds body weight in a flare, it'll probably hold a whipper, since cams dig in more the harder you tug on 'em. Don't argue with DFA, just read 'The Cam Book' and see for yourself.

 

ive done that route at ole smith! good dirty fun!!!!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

iain said:

followed by a forgettable mindless 5.7 clip-up to the left of that chimney hahaha.gif

 

did i do that sport route? i thought you and drul did that whilst fern and i toughed it out in hanta country! i remember rapping your line tho!

 

 

cantfocus.gif

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dru said:

hybrids and offset friends

 

Yep. If it's truly unprotectable by anything else that is worth a crap then what dru said is the deal.

 

Sometimes being creative with gear helps but not always- IE a tri cam (lowe) has less surface space than a cam for instance but the rock depends.... I have not done said route.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dru said:

onsighting on TR counts as a free point for your 8a.nu scorecard Iain!!! wave.gif

I distinctly remember leading that clippy part, as I was hanging it out at least 3 ft above last bolt at times, particularly after I had clipped 12 draws within >12m and my clipping hand was worn out. Dru picks up the 8a.nu onsight points for the wide plumber's crack though. hahaha.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What about hexes. The sides of hexes are tapered for flaring cracks. Look at the top of a hex and you will see what I am talking about. I've only used them like this a couple time but it has worked. Being passive pro, if the crack is too flaired they will not work. I've never used offset cams so I'm not sure how they would compare.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...