Jump to content

Where to go for chimneys


Gaston_Lagaffe

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Flee Fly Flue is a good 5.7 chimney on the middle wall at Index. Its been awhile, but I think I remember, about 20-30 feet of nice wide bombay chimney action with no pro. Then placing the big green camelot and a brushy finish to the anchors. The rock isn't worn smooth like the aries chimney.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mark said:

Flee Fly Flue is a good 5.7 chimney on the middle wall at Index. Its been awhile, but I think I remember, about 20-30 feet of nice wide bombay chimney action with no pro. Then placing the big green camelot and a brushy finish to the anchors. The rock isn't worn smooth like the aries chimney.

 

As I remember Hips and Valleys also has a short chimney section and it is easy to set a TR on it.

 

Don't forget Roller Coaster Chimney, Black Widow or even Easter OH on Midnight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DCramer said:

 

Don't forget Roller Coaster Chimney, Black Widow or even Easter OH on Midnight.

 

I guess Roller Coaster was technically my first 5.9 trad lead, though I only led the crux half of the pitch. It is a beautiful chimney, with a tricky exit move, and sure was a nice finish to the Flame.

 

I heart chimneys. cantfocus.gif Have a blast finding some good ones around here. Best of luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

texplorer said:

Surprised I haven't heard about the desert chimneys

-Kor/Ingals on Castleton

-The Priest

-Lightening bolt cracks

-Sister superior

 

Almost all the desert towers have chimneys come to think of it.

 

One of the scariest pitches I ever led was the 3rd on Kor-Ingalls, I had never climbed a chimney pitch harder than about 5.5 before that and ended up liebacking about 30ft through the crux, sweating bullets, cursing, breathing so hard I thought I was gonna puke. Came very very close to taking a big ride on that one.

 

The Priest is just disgusting it looks so scary.

 

And I hear Erik knows something about the scary chimneys on Tricks in Zion.

 

I'm suprised Tex didn't put in votes for a road trip to Yos to train on Steck Salathe', Hollow Flake, Midterm, Texas Flake. Lost Arrow Chimney...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

The North Face route (opposite side from Klenke's photo) has a great chimney! Go way deep inside then squirm out behind a huge chockstone right at the top. It's like emerging from a snaf.gif hole.

 

Bunch of good easy chimney's here , that are a lot closer though. Probably could go climb 'em this weekend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just did a route at Vantage called "Strokin' the Chicken" in the Kingpins. It starts out as a double crack and then turns into a narrow chimney that gets wider as you go up. The good thing about this is that you can practice a variety of stemming moves as you go up. There is even a chockstone you can sling on the way up. It protects well. Although it is rated at 5.6, it seemed harder than Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7) which I we did the same day. I think the reason is fewer face holds on which to cheat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

these chimneys are in the boulders below Carnival Crack in the Icicle Canyon. There is another fun gimme chimney in some random boulder up valley of Bridge Creek. Some of the most fun chimney bouldering I have ever done. Also I will add North North Arete on the Chief to my list of quality chimney involved climbing.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can’t believe nobody has mentioned Damnation crack at Castle Rock. There is also a good chimney that starts of NW Corner and W Face on NEWS.

 

I heard a great comparison once that climbing chimneys are like having sex. You get in, wiggle around until everything feels right, then have at it.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

The flaring,narrowing chimney to the right of the climber in Joseph's third picture was a good test for me. There is a bolt to protect the exit move that I had to clip blindly. Move up, reach around, and yell "am I hi enuf yet?". Repeat till answer is yes laugh.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys are talking about Red Rocks go do this: Time up 5.12a, on Brownstone Wall; Put up buy Uriostes in 1985

Here in Washingtion,South Early Winter Spire, The Dolphin Chimeny 5.10c

Frenchman Coulee:Sex With Vegtables, 5.10D,The top half.

Seven Virgins and a Mule, 5.7

Index, Lizard Route,5.8+

Tieton River,on Moon Rock, Internal Bliss 5.7

The List go on?

Rocks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...