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Where to go for chimneys


Gaston_Lagaffe

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Ok, so I went to Index on Saturday and absolutely positively SUCKED at getting up (on tr mind you) the 5.8 flaring chimney by Great Northern Slab. However, since I will inevitably come across more chimneys in my climbs, I need to develop some skills. So my question is this: where should I go to practice? Plus, where can I get suggestions on how to climb them?

 

Thanks in advance,

Cheers bigdrink.gif

 

 

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few and far between in these parts

lworth has a few good ones. only ones that come to mind this very second is hyperspace and madesens chimmeny.

 

there is no real specialized technique.

 

stemming, wedgeing, footwork, friction all play important parts. stay calm and try to investigate all your oppertunites and features.

 

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At index, there's a short chimney on the GM route and don't some consider Battered Sandwich an off widthy chimney? You should come back in February or March and climb that Lizzard chimney with green slime all over it, that's fun.. hellno3d.gif

 

There is no technique, just wrassle that sucker. I've found that crying does not really help very much...

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There is no technique, just wrassle that sucker.

 

There most certainly is technique to climbing off widths and chimneys. Arm bar, stemming, chicken wing....etc. However technique can vary wildly depending on your body part size. Also more than one technique may workcantfocus.gif

 

The Fault was one of the first chimneys I ever led. After that buttlips then I don't know.

 

Take a trip to Yosemite wink.gif

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If you trying to learn chimney technique, I would stay with granite for right now as the other areas (vantage, etc.) often let you use face holds inside the chimney.

 

Between buildings works great.

 

Next time you head up to Givler's dome in Leavenworth, head about 5 minutes to the right. About 30 feet left of Mastadon roof is a short widecrack that works you though all of the techniques and gets easier the higher you get. Plus it has pine needle/dirt landing so you could go over to it and clmb by yourself for an hour and really get the techniqe dialled.

 

For chimneys, relax and take your time. Rest every move if you can.

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And even though I told you to go to granite, at Vantage, there is a 5.10 bolted chimney called "satan" that is one of the best routes at the place.

Not like the entablature sport , trad crack, and column sport routes that all seem the same after a while (same schema of moves).

 

 

 

 

 

 

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You can do a great wide stem chimney between the pillars at the concrete version of Stonehenge near Maryhill, but topping out is tough. But really, Yosemite has some great examples. I don't know that there is anything tougher on this earth than a 5.9 chimney, except maybe for a 5.8 chimney.

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