ClimbingCowboy Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 What are the conditions like this time of year on this route? The idea is to climb this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 In general? Or were you looking for someone recently up there. The route should be in excellent shape right now, with some minor ice bouldering through the bergschrunds. Be careful if you skirt the first one on the left, as it is exposed to serious rockfall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picketeer Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 Did the route a number of years ago on a summer solstice weekend. Took the right hand side of the glacier up, then made the schrund crossing and reached the ridge near the large pinnacle (Mohler's Tooth?) that is prominent on the right ridge skyline above the schrund. The route from there is a pretty straightforward ridge traverse to make it over to the summit pinnacle, where one has to make a very steep (to me) traverse to gain the scramble routes to the summit. I would go very soon since the schrund crossing will get sketchier (and the rockfall more intense from the headwalls) as more days go by. Also, I might recommend camping at around 7000' near the glacier snout above Jeff Park. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 the rock pinnacle on the right is actually Smith Rock, and the buttress on the left (where the narrow ridge is) is the Mohler Tooth. I would stay away from the right side of the glacier. I have witnessed huge breaks off the icefall on the upper right, and these somehow bounce large chunks all the way down the glacier. I say stay on the left where there are no crevasses, then traverse over to the ramp up to the ridge. I agree with the camping deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingCowboy Posted July 17, 2003 Author Share Posted July 17, 2003 The type of climbing being considered is that of a 2-person team, with crampons, ice ax and (since there's only 2 of us) unroped. We plan on leaving Jefferson Park before daylight. May have to reconsider leaning Sunday morning at zero-dark thirty in order to minimize rockfall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 If you are going unroped in the dark I would definitely stay far left on the glacier. There are many large crevasses that open up later in the year (I have climbed it in September before) and they extend far over. Should be a cakewalk right now, but tread carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 I haven't heard of any recent beta, but here's our TR from about a month ago. things have changed a lot since then though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 iain said: the rock pinnacle on the right is actually Smith Rock, And all this time I've been off route, climb bolted cracks near a river with topless babes running about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingCowboy Posted July 21, 2003 Author Share Posted July 21, 2003 Thanks to Iain, wazzumountaineer, Mtn High and Picketter for the beta. I'll post the story later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 MtnHigh said: And all this time I've been off route, climb bolted cracks near a river with topless babes running about. I've been off route. All this time I've been climbing bolted crack near a river with DFA and non-topless hippie chicks about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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