allthumbs Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: in cascasdeclimbers.com, that's on MSNBC I think ...thankyou Dru, for those words of wit, now I must run to take a shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by trask: ...thankyou Dru, for those words of wit, now I must run to take a shit. ...if the log roles over we'll all be dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 I absolutely love Red Rocks, soft ratings and all! Maybe the soft ratings ARE why I love RR! lol The sport at RR is steep and juggy (which is what I like) VS balancy and crimpy at Smith. Don't get me wrong I love Smith too, it's just a little harder on the ego. I plan on going back to RR in the spring again with friends to try some of the multi pitch trad and sport. Actually one of my favorite trad routes is at Smith..Zebra/Zion is an absolute blast! If you go to RR and want to try an easy 12a, Sweet Pain is the ticket. And yeah it is a lot of fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by trask: ...thankyou Dru, for those words of wit, now I must run to take a shit. Enjoy your shit Trask and don't forget to wipe your pimply ass. -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: So i figured it out...don't train hard. instead, find the "softest" graded routes and send them. right?so where should we go? Hey if you're after numbers for the sake of numbers that'd be the wisest course of action no? It seem that top climber play that game too. Check out this from the Gripped website: Ontario NewsTrotter, First Canadian to Just Do It (14c) says "It's Nowhere Near my Limit"Sonnie Trotter from Newmarket Ontario became the first Canadian to climb 5.14c when he sent Just Do It at Smith Rocks Oregon on the first of April. Incredibly, it was the first route he got on after a 50-hour drive. "For five years it's been my dream route," he stated after the ascent, which explains his motivation. "ItÕs my favourite route ever, with a stunning position, but itÕs nowhere near my limit. I know I can climb harder than that." Well, last I saw everyone who's climbed it in the last few years has called it soft and downgraded it to .14b or b/c. Could be the mag, could be Trotter, but has he climbed .14c? I say who gives a shit, but it seems to matter to them otherwise you'd think they would give it the most recently established grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 long live "ego" grades. i'll go back to smith when everything goes up one full number grade so that i can feel like i'm cool. until then i'm off to do laps on "sweet pain" barefoot and naked with a watermelon tied around my waist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 trotter sucks...he can only climb 14b! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: long live "ego" grades. i'll go back to smith when everything goes up one full number grade so that i can feel like i'm cool. until then i'm off to do laps on "sweet pain" barefoot and naked with a watermelon tied around my waist! Is that sort of like walking along the beach with a potato in your speedo? -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Enjoy your shit Trask and don't forget to wipe your pimply ass. -Heinous Heh there heinie. What's up your ass? Was that a slam, dognuts? Where's the love? Smoke this turd, Nazi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Is that sort of like walking along the beach with a potato in your speedo? -Heinous yeah, one big muthafuckin potato!Oh, by the way i just put up a first ascent called "Playing Pocket Pool With a Potato" and graded it 5.16b but it's really only 5.11a (don't tell anyone about the 5.11 part) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: long live "ego" grades. i'll go back to smith when everything goes up one full number grade so that i can feel like i'm cool. until then i'm off to do laps on "sweet pain" barefoot and naked with a watermelon tied around my waist! Ok who gave you the "secret" beta on Sweet Pain? OK ok so the crux involves a no hands rest made possible by a prick jam (hence the nudity), which allows a shakeout before you pull the roof. Hence the name "Sweet Pain". I'm unaware of this watermelon beta. Fill me in. Not literally of course Nature Boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: yeah, one big muthafuckin potato!Oh, by the way i just put up a first ascent called "Playing Pocket Pool With a Potato" and graded it 5.16b but it's really only 5.11a (don't tell anyone about the 5.11 part) I once saw a guy at Smith climbing in nothing but a jock strap. It was sort of gross. Especially when he had to stem way out. I think he was climbing "Wartley's Revenge". Its a good thing he didn't have Montezuma's Revenge. Haarrr! I crack myself up. -Heinous [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Heinouscling ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: yeah, one big muthafuckin potato! OK, but you're supposed to place it in the front of your speedos. -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jblakley: Ok who gave you the "secret" beta on Sweet Pain? OK ok so the crux involves a no hands rest made possible by a prick jam (hence the nudity), which allows a shakeout before you pull the roof. Hence the name "Sweet Pain". I'm unaware of this watermelon beta. Fill me in. Not literally of course Nature Boy! the watermelon is to be shoved up the ass after the prick jam as to distract the penis so that it will release (kind of like hosing down dogs if they get stuck together while screwing so they release). it's easier to drag a watermelon up a climb than a fire hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 the watermelon works better than a potato Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: the watermelon is to be shoved up the ass after the prick jam as to distract the penis so that it will release (kind of like hosing down dogs if they get stuck together while screwing so they release). it's easier to drag a watermelon up a climb than a fire hose. I'm curios as to why dogs get stuck screwing. Can anybody enlighten me please? (Yes, its a little off topic). -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: I'm curios as to why dogs get stuck screwing. Can anybody enlighten me please? (Yes, its a little off topic). -Heinous it's like a "colored" fellow placing his large "package" into a skinny little "cracker" type girls "slit". there just ain't alot o' room in there so once it's in it just stays there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: it's like a "colored" fellow placing his large "package" into a skinny little "cracker" type girls "slit". there just ain't alot o' room in there so once it's in it just stays there. Have you ever heard of humans running into this problem? What about the natural lube? Ain't it supposed to help out? -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 On the topic- there a lot of "5.10" climbers at vantage who are going to be real dissapointed if they ever go anywhere else. 5.10 vantage is 5.7/5.8 Jtree! I just have to lauph out loud at some of the ratings at vantage- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 So you calling yourself a 5.8 climber these day's Chuck? lol Just phuckin wit ya. Chucko's a stout trad boy. Hey remember Karate Crack Charlie? There's an easy 10a! (hilarious laughter) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.E Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 Funny how you don't see many of the 5.12 climbers sending Karate now a days. Back in the day they warmed up on it. I guess they should put bolts up the side of it. That would preserve the insides of the crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 Well, you have the obvious characteristics thathelp a climber to climb 5.12 such as a highstrength to weight ratio. I've never seen a bodybuilder climb 5.12. Thats not to say that they are not out there. Figuring that you have good forearm strength and endurance and your overall level of fitness is up to the task, the next area to look at is technique. Also, the 5.12 climb itself must be examined. Is it a slab, an overhang with big holds, a near vertical with crimpers? Regardless, technique will be critical. Since I myself am hoping to climb 5.12 one day, I have been taking the time to study the technique of climbers running up and down 5.12+ routes. Since I live in Portland, I spend much time at Smith, which gives me ample opportunity to watch hard sport climbers. I've noticed some common technique characteristics amongst most of these climbers. One: No wasted energy. They climb very efficiently. Each foot and hand is placed precisely the first time. Once placed, it stays there and does not move. Two: They usually climb very steadily and fluid, except when climbing through a crux. In which case, they may speed it up a bit. Even through the crux, they maintain efficiency and good style. No freaking out or flailing. Three: When they have reached a decent rest hold, if one avails itself, they use it to its maximum potential. They stop and shake out and take the time to regain any lost composure. They also take the time to examine the climbing above to see what lies ahead and figure out the next required moves. They also look for upcoming cruxes where they might have to speed it up a bit to get through them. Four: They are always reading the climb a few moves beyond where they currently are on the climb. They do this at rest holds and also while climbing upwards. Five: Hips in and arms straight whenever possible. Drop knees and stems always used and never missed. Six: They breath hard and deeply while climbing in order to fuel their body with maximum oxygen. Muscle tissue recovers faster when more oxygen is taken in. They never forget to breath. Lastly: A good session with the significant other the morning or night before. -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 Simple question that has a complicated answer. In my experience, an emphasis on technique then strength helped elevate the numbers into 5.12 and beyond. Hand Technique-Footwork-Body Tension-Body Positioning-Mental Techniques, all fall under the category of "Technique". Strength also includes so many many factors. The question is where does one begin. That takes an open mind and spirit. Willingness to examine and work on their weaknesses, ask questions and look like a dork is a good start. And yes you can have a job and climb 5.13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by coyote: Can you let me know what I might want to consider in my training to get there? what kind of climbing do you want to get better at? trad, sport, bouldering, steep climbing, slabs, cracks...or everything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coyote Posted January 25, 2002 Author Share Posted January 25, 2002 Thanks all!! Currently I'm doing sport climbing mainly vertical crimpy holds....or sloped palm holds...I think I need to work on forearm strength there but fo r the crimpy...how the hell are you keeping your feet on....Eventually climbing everything would be nice but now vert, crimpy...Have a round on me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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