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F.R.N.S.A.O.B.P.E.R.D.


Marko

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Yeah that's right, the plum of the Cascades has finally been picked. Poached right out from under Fred's nose (thank Dog). The First (Recorded) Nude Solo Ascent Of Black Pyramid's Direct East Ridge.

Beautiful approach up through Temple Canyon and a classic sharp ridge with way solid rock. Even bootied 4 biners.

 

Cheers!

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wayne1112 said:

(Witty type pun) ... was the e ridge direct a new route? I see noone has done the n face direct start or finish.

 

Howdy Wayne!

Could be a first, but I'm usually wary of claiming any rock route first ascents in the backcountry. I am sticking to this specific claim though! I'll just add more qualifiers if anyone gives me any crap! Unfortunately no one saw my footprints and I didn't bring a GPS.

 

Figger, it was kinda wierd: The slabs on the Nada Cr approach had several rappel stations (1st biner), the slabs getting to the route start had several more (2nd biner), and the descent down the normal E. ridge route had a shitload more (more biners, one a nice keylock). On the way down I cut off and brought back ~5 Lbs of old tat. There was a helluva lot more evidence of humans on the normal route than there was on the approach I thought.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So enough chestbeating. I would totally recommend the climb. Although totally dwarfed by Temple Ridge proper, it's a cool outing. Beautiful, adventurous approach and ~3 ropelengths of perfect cracks on a solid knife edge ridge. Mid 5th, could use one rope to rap the normal east route. Clothing optional.

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