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Enchantments Traverse


jason_h

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I'm planning on it in august and as far as I can tell the hardest technical climbing comes on stuart. I'm giong in via the west ridge. There is that 5.7 exposed move on the west ridge of prusik, but prusik isn't even really in the same ridge ling. I think it goes on and continues after argonaut over to Mclellan Ridge.

 

I'm thinking it'll take two starting at the ingalls trail and finishing at the snow creek parking lot.

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ken 4 , and i did a traverse along the crest in june goin from the car at mtneer cr trhd, to sherpa pass, along the ridge east, down to the base of the south face of argo( clean golden rock with many route options-splitters), then traversing along the crest or the south side. then down to the basin beneath colchuck/dragontail, up and around to the east side and down the slopes leading to asgaard pass, and out via colchuck lake... 14 hours car2car with a mellow pace and time to chill in the amazingly beautiful scene. this crest from sherpa pass to argo is kinda more scambling than climbing with short sections of steeper stuff. there is much up and down climbing as well further along. also the summits of colchuck and dragontail from this side are pretty much walk-ups... starting from stuart, and continuing to prusik would be big... good luck-bp bigdrink.gif

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Croft's solo ridge run has almost become mythical in how often it is talked about in Cascade climbing circles.

I seemed to remember reading an interview with Croft in an old rock &ice about it. I think he started up the complete north ridge to start the enchainment. I think he described the crux as some lichen covered rock between sherpa and argonaut? If you stay on the crest of the ridge their is a lot of gnarly real estate between sherpa and argonout and it is about a hortizontal mile. Definitely the time consuming part of the trip due to the fact that their are probalby two dozen little towers blocking your way.

As a sidenote, we often erroneously use "traverse" interchnageably with ridge run or enchainment around here. for a euro style enchainement, you must stay on the crest the whole time and negociate towers. A traverse can take on a much more broad and less technical definition (valley end runs etc.). I'm done with my soapbox now. bigdrink.gif

Have fun and watch out for snaffs

Edited by Jens
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no offense jens, but I think you have travertse and enchainment backasswards.... you can ENCHAIN the 6 classic north faces but you can't do that on a traverse... ENCHAINMENT is a linking of multiple routes or summits. a TRAVERSE is following a ridge crest over one or numerous summits...as in, a traverse of stuart, up the N riodge and down the E ridge, would be a good way to start off a traverse of stuart range finishing on dragontail...

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My bad...I'm referring to enchainment, not traverse. As I am looking to climb the easier routes up and especially down Sherpa and Argo within a reasonable distance of the east and west ridges. And what the connection between Argo and Colchuck is like from that side.

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Jarred_Jackman said:

I'm planning on it in august and as far as I can tell the hardest technical climbing comes on stuart. I'm giong in via the west ridge. There is that 5.7 exposed move on the west ridge of prusik, but prusik isn't even really in the same ridge ling.

 

It's 5.7 for exposure only. It's really just a high angle friction slab to a corner and an easy pull to a short, narrow butt-scumming ridge. It's airy, but not difficult.

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