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Overhand Knot for Rap


richard_noggin

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Ok I know some of you will point me in the direction of

endless treads, but I just want up to date first hand beta.

I have been useing the grapevine knot for tying two ropes together , it was the knot used by most climbers for years.

I have tried the overhand knot and it passes the swingset test but I am still a little spooked.

How many of you use the overhand knot with no back up knot and do you trust it?

It's just hard to trust just an overhand knot with my life!

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Do some web searches for EDK and Tom Moyer and you'll find some references to his testing. You can also find out who he is and whether or not you want to trust his data (I do). One link is below (you knew you'd get pointed elsewhere!). Just pay attention to the fact that he tests two versions of the EDK - fig 8 (sucks) and overhand (solid). And note that the when the overhand edk "rolls," it is not failing. All of his tests that I've seen show the overhand edk actually failing at very high forces, typically over 2000 pounds. That's a bit more force than I, for one, can generate on a rap! To answer your original question, I use the overhand edk with no backup and trust it completely.

 

http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

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The overhand knot is "the" UIAGM approved knot for tying ropes together, and works great for those raps when you've got to pull the knot over a ledge. It naturally spins around and clears the ledge without getting hung up. May help clearing other obstacles as well on the way down.

 

When there's no ledge clearing issues... I still use the fishermans. Old school habit.

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I've been using the EDK without a problem for 20 years. I always dress it carefully so that the strands perfectly parallel each other without any twists, and and I pull it tight from both ends. I also leave tails at least 10" long.

 

The double fisherman's can be very hard to untie after multiple rappels.

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Paul_detrick said:

Fishermans knot, with over hand knot.

Grapevine knot , Fishermans knot same thing , depends on the book or who taught you.

Overhand knot with both ends coming out the same end=

EDK

Thanks for the hands on input from all .

Guess I just have to take my tail from between my legs and suck it up.

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Yeah, I just started using the EDK. It's definately a little nerve-wracking, but if you let your partner(s) go first, you can watch it. Leave your tails long and you're golden. I've backed it up with a second EDK (cinched right up next to the main EDK) before. That's worked fine, although there is more bulk in the knot and it could get caught easier.

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richard_noggin said:

Overhand knot with both ends coming out the same end=EDK

 

OK, just so I'm clear (having not had the choads to actually use the EDK yet) on how to tie this thingie.

 

It's a simple single overhand knot that starts with both ends lying next to each other with ends matched up equally (not pointing at each other as in a grapevine/fisherman's) and no back-up?

 

It is NOT a "granny" knot nor a square knot. Do I have this right, kidz?

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sobo said:

richard_noggin said:

Overhand knot with both ends coming out the same end=EDK

 

OK, just so I'm clear (having not had the choads to actually use the EDK yet) on how to tie this thingie.

 

It's a simple single overhand knot that starts with both ends lying next to each other with ends matched up equally (not pointing at each other as in a grapevine/fisherman's) and no back-up?

 

It is NOT a "granny" knot nor a square knot. Do I have this right, kidz?

This is what I found on Google:

 

overhandsknute.gif

 

Looks to me like a water knot, but parallel instead of anti-parallel.

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Kiwi said:

 

This is what I found on Google:

 

overhandsknute.gif

 

Looks to me like a water knot, but parallel instead of anti-parallel.

 

That was exactly what I was thinking. Thanks for the pic, Kiwi. Now I just have to grow the nutz to actually use it! cantfocus.gif

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