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Winter Routes, Part II


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Since the original "Winter Routes" thread was terminated while I was writing and submitting a route report, I'll try this one again.

Guye Peak, E. Gully:

Yesterday (2/11/01), my wife Kirsten, Laurie Andrews, and I climbed this route. It's not technical, but is a good conditioner and more sporting than the N. Ridge or the std. route up from Alpental.

To get there, park at the Oberstrasse Rd. parking lot directly below the W. Face of Guye. Head up through the woods on the right side of the scree slope. Find the toe of the S. Rib and contour around the right side of the peak at about 4,000' (Commonwealth Basin side). Keep the flanks of the peak (on your left) within sight above you for the most part. You will be heading N./N.E., and will cross several minor ribs. When the slope below and in front of you opens into an obvious avalanche zone with much smaller trees, begin heading up into the gully. It's about 30-40 feet wide and runs clear to the top, just N. of the N. Peak. It's 35-40 degrees, maybe a tad steeper at the very top.

Take an ice axe and crampons. Rope optional. No pro should be needed unless it's icy (which is wasn't yesterday). Descend back down to Alpental and walk the road back to the car. Should take 3-4 hours up, 1-1.5 down to car. Beckey has good beta, drawings, and pictures.

John Sharp

[This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 02-12-2001).]

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Don't laugh, but Mt. Pilchuck can actually be pretty interesting during winter conditions. I got blasted off the summit ridge one time by about 30 mph winds and near white out conditions, with wind chill it was well below freezing. You can also make it more challenging by traversing along below the major cliff all the way to the east end of the mountain, then scrambling up fairly steep mixed rock, snow, and brush. But even on the worst day, in the middle of winter, on a weekday, there's almost guaranteed to be someone else out there, so don't go for the solitude.

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