Buckaroo Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Was just over at Bellevue Marmot and got a look at the rope solo belay device "silent partner" that's recommended as the only good device in certain gear books. The only thing that bothers me is it weighs a ton, and requires that 2 beeners are used to clip to your harness. Seriously, it weighs one pound, and add the weight of 2 beeners to clip it on. It's also pretty spendy at 225.00. Was wondering if anyone here has experience with the modified Gri-Gri as a self belay device. I am familiar with how to modify it, but not exactly with how it's used. I have some video of Catherine Destivelle on Devils Tower using the gri-gri anchored down at the belay. It binds up when she's halfway up the pitch and she unties and continues on. This is bogus it must just be a gimmick for the camera. I'm just wondering how well it works, do you have to feed the rope or is it more or less self feeding? Do you carry the rope with you or just let it loop down to the belay? any info appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 This web page has lots of details on top rope self belay, but does discuss the lead self belay devices too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 you might consider the ushba basic ascender if you are looking for a lightweight alternative. It has no teeth and slides smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Then again you might run screaming from the Ushba Basic if you read the page I posted. Or you might not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Yates Rocker for top rope soloing! I have not tried bottom rope style. Not too many options for that. Rocket deployed parachute might be good but heavy and expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 ushba basic for top rope only cuz it breaks the rope at 5kn according to the page snoboy posted if its the same page quoted on www.buildering.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 the Yates Rocker gets several good votes from both sides of the Atlantic, and having compaered many of these side by side, the Rocker definetly has one of the easiest feeds of any of the devices in general use for TRS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 I assumed this was toproped soloing. Since I clearly did not read the initial post closely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Buckaroo said: Was wondering if anyone here has experience with the modified Gri-Gri as a self belay device. I am familiar with how to modify it, but not exactly with how it's used. I'm just wondering how well it works, do you have to feed the rope or is it more or less self feeding? It is used with a chest harness, and the modification makes it self feeding supposedly, without sawing off the flap you would need a hand free to help the rope along. I have used an unmodified Gri-gri with no chest harness for solo aiding (you don't specify aid or free?). I don't recommend it, but in some circumstances it is fine. In others it is not. Do you carry the rope with you or just let it loop down to the belay? for me that's not so much device dependent as situational. Are the wind and the terrain going to conspire to f*$^ you over if you let the rope hang? I don't like the idea of carrying the rope with me for example in a backpack because I don't want it to get involved around my neck if I fall. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 well that ushba information from the Lyon Equipment tests is alarming to read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Ristau Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Another option is the Wren Soloist. The same manufacturee as the Silent Partner, but at half the weight and cost. I have not used one, but one of my climbing partners has extensively, and he recommends it. Caveats: You must use a chest harness to position the device correctly. It will not hold an upside down fall. Seeing as how his climbing is limited this summer, I intend to "liberate" his soloist and see how well it works for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted July 9, 2003 Author Share Posted July 9, 2003 Just to clarify I'm looking for a belay device for rope solo free climbing on lead. I have the Wren Soloist, it works good for aid, but with free climbing the rope tends to start feeding through by itself, after you get past half way, causing slack. When I use the soloist I either leave the slack rope at the belay or carry it with me in a rope bag tied to the harness depending on conditions, ledge size, wind, keeper flakes. The Yates Rocker looks good weight and price wise , but can it be used for free climb lead rope solo? thanks again for the responses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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