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Dragontail Peak conditions


robertjoy

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Hummmm. Lets see... It will likely be the same as every other year at this time. Possibly a little snow at the base that might be nice to have crampons to cross, or can be skirted around. The desent will have a snow field. If you dont take crampons then you walk an extra half mile around and go down from there. Oh and later in the season there will be less snow. rolleyes.gif

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Serpentine Ridge is a fun route. The remarks about choss are not really true. I would even say the rock is better than say Forbidden Peak. There are the random loose blocks on the large sections of 4th class like any 4th class section in the mountains. I think the rock is solid where the climbing is steeper. Where the angle drops then just step a little bit more careful so you don't dislodge obvious blocks on the parties behind you.

 

I do recommend helmets up higher if you are climbing in such a large group. Bring your route finding beacon and enjoy.

 

The approach and descent are usually not without snow. The degree of the slope will vary depending on the year. Just bring some crampons and or an axe and you should be okay.

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As of Sunday there is a short patch of hard steep snow, about a hundred feet wide, at the base of the route. Certainly best crossed with crampons although you could probably kick steps if you were wearing heavy boots.

 

The slope on the descent from the summit to Asgard Pass is much larger and is also steep but likely to be softer late in the day. I wore soft approach shoes and was glad of a pair of Al crampons and a light axe. You may be able to skirt around this but there's more snow up there than when we did this last year so you may be walking a bit further.

 

The descent from Asgard Pass is snow free.

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We were there yesterday. It didn't get very cold overnight, so the snow wasn't too hard. We brought a tool each (less clunky than an axe) and single pair of alum crampons for the two of us. We never touched the pons, though the tool was nice for playing games inside the moat and for glissading down Dragontail.

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hello i am reading in new canadian alpine journal that when fred beckey had to bivouac with ray borbon who i think is capitan caveman on this site, in the nuit range, the last summer, he is now calling it his most miserable bivouac ever. mr caveman did you insist on being the spoon and not the jelly!

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