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Trav

TR: Stanley/Burgner route S. Face Prusik Peak

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On Sunday Robbe Anson and I climbed S. Face of Prusik with great weather. We started in a crack left of the 5.8 version. This start was 5.10 at least and took us up to the middle of the trees on the second pitch so we climbed the first two pitches as one. Great jams and a really fun pitch. This was the only deviation we took from the described route in the guide books. Overall a great climb on beautiful rock. We saw one party starting up the route behind us but that was all. Approach over assgard was fine with a well beatten path through all sections up to Prusik pass. I was surprised to see so few people on a holiday weekend and was even more surprised that we were able to get permits for camping.

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Approach over assgard was fine

Does this mean it's snow free? thinking of just wearing sneakers this weeknd. tia.

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Aasgard is snow free. I wore sneaks and my feet never got wet. There is still snow in the upper Enchantment basin but it is firm enough to walk on top off.

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I though it was OK up till the section with the old rotten yellow fixed sling. There I had to think and grunt a little harder. Overall a bit strenuous.

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I had to yard on the sling to get my body turned around so I could get to the face moves and exit..

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Alex said:

I had to yard on the sling to get my body turned around so I could get to the face moves and exit..

you know, my buddy climbed it that way and told me" you gotta go to the face". Well, I liked the chimney and the gear and didn't yard on the sling(chestbeat). I thought that chimney was EASIER than the "5.8" Aires or the Lizard at Index. And it has way better gear than the chimney at index. .02 cnd

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