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carolyn

This is NOT another sport vs trad debate!

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Dwayner said:

JayB said:

....Edited comment about physique consistent with redpointing 5.13...

 

Add a couple more weeks for the yogurt and brown-rice diet, eh? You are a piece of work!!!

 

I'll tell you what, Jay B.....save all of that "bet y'can't" money and see a counselor about your self-loathing attitude. I won't pitch in because some of the others around here in similar need might expect a similar handout. I don't know you, I don't know what you do for a living....all I can say is that......ah....never mind. Enjoy your life and abilities to the extent you will allow yourself to do so.

Hint...may not have been thinking about my own physique...

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RuMR said:

shoot...can you guys pay me to go redpoint a 13????? Please?? I just got screwed on raises!!

 

Sorry the deal's only for Dr Don. Now if he does accept the 5.13 challenge and fails I think it's only fair for D to perform 7 demeaning tasks that CPB comes up with. yellaf.gif

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JayB...really....what's your problem, masterfully-honed stud????

I think that little avatar picture of yours speaks for itself. I only have have a vague memory of meeting you briefly at some pub-club where you said, "hey I'm jayb...remember me?...we used to fight on the internet about bolts?...remember me" It would be interesting to see if we ever meet again if you are as big a punk in real life as you are proving yourself to be here. thumbs_down.gif The other guys.....they're kinda of funny and clever; even Petey Puget sometimes. You are not.

Good day....now go back to your cubicle.

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11 pages of spray about the SOS yellowsleep.gifyellowsleep.gifyellowsleep.gif

while you were spraying I was a climbing rolleyes.gif

BTW if you don't climb it ALL, your not really a climber , just a $#!t talk'n wantabe the_finger.gif

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I swore last night I was done with this post, but...but...but...

 

There seems to be quite a bit of noise in the room, so I dont know how much of what I have to say will be heard. I dont even know if I will make sense. I will give it a go, anyway.

 

I was chatting with one of my coworkers who has been climbing for close to 25 yrs. He has been around the block a couple times and has some amazing ascents under his belt in every aspect of climbing.

 

I was telling him about my sport climbing experience...and boy did he go on and on about it! So, I shut up and listened carefully.

 

He talked about the importance of learning to fall. If not for the knowledge of how to fall "safely", to help you become less afraid of falling. If you are afraid of falling, you tense up and the climbing becomes harder than it should be. Granted, he made it very clear that you have to understand when it is Okay to fall and when it is Not.

 

He told me about a climber (whose name and accomplishments I cant remember), who was terrified of falling. So, he practiced...falling one foot, then two feet, then five...eventually falling up to thirty feet (I think this term was coined, sport jumping?). By the time he and his partner got up to this big route their fear was minimal, allowing them to focus on the climbing itself. Who ever this person was did a bunch of 'firsts', opening the doors for other climbers to see the possibilities and stop looking at their limitations.

 

He then went on to give me some examples of how falling is not failing...its how you get better. ie/a sax player cant immediately hit all the notes. He is going to mess up (fall down) a lot before he gets better. Another example was how a youngin' who heads outside for the first time, only having climbed in the gym before can often times onsight a higher grade than those who climbed outside for decades (in a perfectionistic way - never allowing themselves to hang, flail, fall). Why is this? Probably because they dont have that fear, they dont set limitations on themselves, they dont try to climb perfectly. This is what allows them to get stronger both mentally and physically.

 

Finally, he explained to me why he climbs. He enjoys seeing a line and trying to figure out how to climb it. For him to do that (he climbs 5.12-5.14, ice 6+, mixed ???somewhere up there???) its imperative he trains. Training is practice. Practice often involves messing up until we get it right. And, well, who can get better without practice?

 

I still dont know where I stand on the issues being discussed. I think one thing that will help me form my opinions will be when I realize what my real goals/objectives are with climbing. DO I want to onsight high grades? Do I want to just have fun and do what I can w/what Ive got? Is there something more meaningful I want to get out of climbing than just climbing a route? I thought I knew, but I guess I really dont. Im sure thats another subject for a different post.

 

 

 

 

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If not for the knowledge of how to fall "safely", to help you become less afraid of falling.

 

take note that falling like a sporto will kill you if you do it in trad... i have seen many sportos jump out away form the rock, which makes the fall arguably more safer, but doing this on pro will cause the piece to rotate and pull... just be careful...

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carolyn said:

I swore last night I was done with this post, but...but...but...

 

 

Its called crackcocaine, er...i mean cascadeclimbers.com

 

The rest of your post is: thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif and is on the money...

 

Who is your coworker?? 5.14 in minnesota?? did he do that there or somewhere else? The guy sounds badass!!

 

25 years? he must be a bit older too!

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Fence_Sitter said:

If not for the knowledge of how to fall "safely", to help you become less afraid of falling.

 

take note that falling like a sporto will kill you if you do it in trad... i have seen many sportos jump out away form the rock, which makes the fall arguably more safer, but doing this on pro will cause the piece to rotate and pull... just be careful...

 

wtf are you talking about fence??? That's plain bullshit!! HAHAHAHAHA who are these "sportos" hahaha.gif???? yelrotflmao.gif

Edited by RuMR

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RuMR said:

Fence_Sitter said:

If not for the knowledge of how to fall "safely", to help you become less afraid of falling.

 

take note that falling like a sporto will kill you if you do it in trad... i have seen many sportos jump out away form the rock, which makes the fall arguably more safer, but doing this on pro will cause the piece to rotate and pull... just be careful...

 

wtf are you talking about fence??? That's plain bullshit!! HAHAHAHAHA who are these "sportos" hahaha.gif???? yelrotflmao.gif

 

it aint bullshit... i have seen the yunguns up at squish doing this... when they are about to fall they jump out away from the rock so that they swing back into the rock. If you did this on trad gear, say on a nut, you would apply outward force (instead of downward) and most nut placements would fail in this application... but if'n ya wanna try it, have a'er wave.gif

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I'm not saying that jumpin' out doesn't pull gear...i'm just saying that "sportos" don't necessarily do this! At least none of the ones i know! Jumpin' out is also a good way to shatter a foot as well as pull gear!

 

Funny thing...the sport catch is the softest belay out there, and has the least amount of impact on gear...why is called a sport catch????? HAHAHAHHAHAHA

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Hey carolyn, if your having fun it's cool if your not it sucks. Don't worry obout all the sport vs trad bullshit. You could waste your life and lots of server time trying to figgure it out. JUST CLIMB!!!! and leave the debate to all the pasers and gapers on this site. wave.gifwave.gif

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daler said:

I like sport climbing!!!!

 

ahhh dale, you like it all...you're an addict!!!!!!!!! wave.gif

HAHAHAHAHA wazzup.gif

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i went sport climbing and bouldering today the_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gif

 

i saw kurt do a sit start yellaf.gif

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