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sick hard boulder problems


dyno_merchant

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I know that there are tons of hone master climbers in the PNW pulling super hard. What I was wondering was how hard the boulder problems have gotten up there. Where are these stiff little numbers and are there ones on rad rock with cool moves (not just painfull one move wonders)? The hardest problems I have seen up there are about V8 but I know there has to be harder stuff around.

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let me see... "put a glide in ya stride and a dip in yo hip and climb aboard the muthaship." I don't think I need to look in the yellow pages. I should just get a date with you! I've got a crash pad so you bring the oil and candles.

But seriously...I'm just interested in seeing what's going on in the bouldering world up there.If you got something interesting to say about girls, beer or bouldering then we can have a conversation. If not, then maybe you should check out the yellow pages.

[ 01-23-2002: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

[ 01-23-2002: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

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DM,

The only way I'll get up a V8 is with a ladder, but I've got a bunch of friends who boulder pretty hard-- they all talk about Squamish. Maybe they just don't want to hike around here to find the stuff? Who knows... Leavenworth's got plenty of rock waiting to be climbed, as do many other spots I've hiked through (while wishing for stronger tendons), but they just haven't seen much development...

m

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why would any real climber want to waste their time climbing little rocks when they live in a state blessed with one of the finest alpine ranges in the world.....

who wants to waste time scrubbing moss, loose rock and dirt from some boulder that will be covered again in six months?? who wants to go around and spend a day doing one thing over and over and over and over again until they either get it or go home????

i might be fun, but here in washington we aint got time to climb baby rocks.......

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D.M., I sport climb most of the time but the other part of the time I boulder so I haven't been to all the areas yet nor can I confirm all the numbers. Here's some of the harder stuff I know of.Banks Lake:V9 behind the golf ball boulderV7 Green eggs and Ham boulderv8/9 Green eggs and ham boulderV6/7 Northrop canyonV9 Dyno Northrop canyonV10/11 Dyno (one of the most impressive problems I've seen)Northrop canyonV7 northrop canyonBy no means has all the bouldering been discovered here. The rock quality and problems are not as good as Leavenworth but its sunny and can be nice on winter days while Leavenworth is buried in snow.Minnehaha which is a greasy little graffittied crag in the middle of Spokane has a couple despartes:v7 To have and to hold (Mentioned as v8 in John Shermans Stone crusade. Good problem)v7/13a Penis pencilman ( you cold boulder it with a lot of crash pads but it's bolted)v8 smokey on fire (brilliant problemv9/10 Revolution- Painfull and hardThere's still a couple difficult lines left but they havent been done yet. Minnehaha is most likely tapped out for problems.Mclaughlin Canyon just north of Omak:v11 Arete on the free standing boulder at the top of the hill.There's supposed to be a new place in Entiat that's on private land so I'ts all hush hush at the moment. Apparently the photos look excellent.

Johnny Goichea has done all the 9's, 10's, and 11's with only a repeat of Revolution. He's done some stuff at Leavenworth that is also meant to be hard but I haven't made it out there to see it or feel it. We just spent a few weeks in Bishop where he was dispatching V10 within an hour so his grades are probably good. I have yet to boulder at a place as good as Heuco or Bishop but if I do, I'll most likely spend less time hanging on the end of a rope. But for now, the best bouldering that I've done here is on the end of a rope. There's a couple pictures of McLaughlin and Banks on my website. Type www.inlandnwclimb.homestead.com/inlandnwclimb.html and you can check them out.Oh, and when you do come back to washington, you should contact me so I can go check out these places you know of.

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marty, hows it going? I think we've actually met at marcus before. It was probably about 5 or 6 years ago. If it jogs your memory, I was from B'ham and had a big nose...

I was hoping that you would post sooner or later because I thought you might know what's going on in the bouldering scene. Sounds like all the hard stuff is going up east of the "crest". Where's your favorite bouldering spot (good problems and scene) up there?

When I get back up there I'll be sure to get in contact with you!

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quote:

Originally posted by dyno merchant:
Maybe it will just have to take more time until people in the PNW really realize how much bouldering potential there really is. I believe there't tons of potential or I wouldn't be moving back this spring.

yo dyno!

hook a brother up. where are these boulder fields you're talking about? any places climbable in the winter? i've only been on rope about once in the last year and a half - bouldering has become my gig.

give me a shout also when you come back in the spring. i'm up for exploration and new problems.

later.

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D.M.,

That was probably me. I've only been bouldering around here in the winter so I haven't been to Leavenworth yet. Everyone I talk with say the problems are excellent so I'll be trying to visit this spring if I'm not too busy clipping bolts somewhere. Also, you have to check out these Entiat boulders. I heard them described as house sized, in a pine forrest, with nice flat landings. Get a hold of me when you get back and if the limestone hasn't stopped seaping yet, I can at least tour you around at Banks.

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I'm way out of my element here, but I'm aware of a number of extremely talented young climbers who spend enormous amounts of time bouldering in Leavenworth; they should know the area well. I'm thinking V8 is child's play for these guys (one guy was in my class ten years ago and could do a 1-finger pull-up back then!) Contact Bruce at Stone Gardens..he'll steer you in the right direction.

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My experience w/ the entiat boulders is "don't bother". One of the "areas" is a single, huge block with two (?) "hard" (5.11+) lines, and a couple of high 5.9-5.10+'s. I was told by locals that the other area (with several rocks) is on private land. If your there, check them out, otherwise you'll just be wondering where your tank of gas went.

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max,

i agree with your take on the entiat boulders but they were convenient when i used to work there for the usfs. i suggest that anyone who goes should take a mountain bike since there are some fine trails upvalley if the bouldering doesn't meet your expectations.

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marcus, don't you think it's weird that bouldering hasn't taken off in Washington like it has in other places? I know of tons of boulderfields up there that will be world class if people put in a little effort. Maybe it's the fact that people travel south (like I did) and realize how rad it is to be climbing year round in the desert and then they never go back to Wash. Maybe it will just have to take more time until people in the PNW really realize how much bouldering potential there really is. I believe there't tons of potential or I wouldn't be moving back this spring.

I'm not saying that there aren't people putting in a huge effort up there trying to develop new areas. It just seems that the crews that's are putting in the effort are suprisingly few compared to the tons of people that are rope climbing up there.

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quote:

Originally posted by willstrickland:
Erik,

you better be glad that pic of you is not on alpinelite anymore, as I recall that was a pretty small rock ehh
tongue.gif" border="0

will, never said i didn't boulder, we found those out around index and they are alredy clean. and you can't see it in the photo but there a sixer of oe down at the base......and we had already climbed the cterfold that day, so it was like a time to kick back and drink some beer and it happend that there were some boulders around.

i just find it over the top that hoeboy here is sooooo concered baout it and he apprently already lives in heaven, why concern yourself with hell???

self rightous alpine brutha!!!

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quote:

Originally posted by dyno merchant:
.If you got something interesting to say about girls, beer or bouldering then we can have a conversation. If not, then maybe you should check out the yellow pages.

Hey braaahhh,

You were the one asking for some "stiff little numbers" and "harder stuff down there", again try www.chickswithdicks.com or www.shemale.com tongue.gif" border="0

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:

will, never said i didn't boulder, we found those out around index and they are alredy clean. and you can't see it in the photo but there a sixer of oe down at the base......and we had already climbed the cterfold that day, so it was like a time to kick back and drink some beer and it happend that there were some boulders around.

Ahh I'm just givin ya shit E, one of my best days of climbing culminated with tallboys of King Cobra and the Camp4 boulder circuit. Watching Julie DeJesus hike something that kicked my ass was pretty cool and I still can't do that problem.

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erik, I guess I've just gotten lazy. My memories of climbing peaks in the Cascades are like nightmares. The view is great but at what cost!!!Freezing your one eyed trouser snake, death hikes, sharing bivis with dudes out of the canteen boy sketch on snl and rappels off of mossy choss are a few reasons not to do it.

Why not drive right up to the beautifull view, get out of your car, push your technical limits on some amazing boulder and then take a nap on your crashpad with your favorite hot chick while tossing back a few beers?

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You guys are great!!!

I do love to boulder and I know that it goes against what most people are doing up there. I have to admit that even though the southwest can be thought to be heaven, I think that the PNW blows it away because of rad people and places. The cascades rule! I think I miss the moss in my armpits!

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