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carolyn

Lead climbing vs tr'ing and the mental game

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Ive noticed a tendancy to be more conservative in my movement while leading. I can tr the same route and have no problems with a small dyno move, high step, crimping, etc. Then I try to lead it and I wind up getting stuck in certain spots that proved not to be an issue in the past. In the long run, I think it makes me more tired by hesitating or trying to find a different way to climb the route...thus more vunerable to a fall.

 

Have or do others experience this as well? Is it just a matter of leading more? Or is it a mental game I need to deal with sooner than later?

 

 

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just imagine a mental toprope. hahaha.gif

 

no seriously, if it wasn't for mental, your no-falls tr grade would be your free solo grade. but it isn't for most of us.

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"The most important muscle for climbing is your brain. "

Reinhard Karl

 

and as my good friend rat likes to say do yer sixty meters and stfu!

so meaningful and so true. keep the brains bullsheit acitvity to a nil and climbin becomes easier...... bigdrink.gif

 

 

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The more you climb, the more comfortable you are running out the distance between pieces. You'll also find out that sometimes it is safer to climb a little further to find a good rest to wiggle in a piece rather than get pumped out in a bad spot. It all comes with experience though. Most people are more hesitant on lead than when they're on top-rope. You aren't the only one.

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carolyn said:

Ive noticed a tendancy to be more conservative in my movement while leading. I can tr the same route and have no problems with a small dyno move, high step, crimping, etc. Then I try to lead it and I wind up getting stuck in certain spots that proved not to be an issue in the past. In the long run, I think it makes me more tired by hesitating or trying to find a different way to climb the route...thus more vunerable to a fall.

 

Have or do others experience this as well? Is it just a matter of leading more? Or is it a mental game I need to deal with sooner than later?

 

 

Answers to your questions: Yes, yes, yes. Also, you're thinking too much. Just climb, like Caveman says. Focus on your hands, your feet, and the rock; everything else will fall into place as you move.

 

Greg_W

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carolyn said:

Ive noticed a tendancy to be more conservative in my movement while leading.

 

perfectly normal. most people can tr climbs that are quite a bit more difficult than they'll lead ... and yeah; for the most part it is a mental game. it just depends how much you want it, how smart you can be about it (which can just come with experience), and how much "risk" (i.e., of falling) you're willing to take. don't beat yourself up about it like i do. just have fun and go get 'em, girl!

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Climbs are easyer on TR because you don't have to stop and put in gear, I agree with getting to a good spot to set your gear, instead of hanging on in a bad spot. But sometimes there are no good spots. Its all good

 

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Thanks for the input.

 

Ya, that climbing w/o thinking is a productive and fun way to go. The greatest gift i have gotten from climbing thus far is how it helps give my mind a rest. My mind usually just turns off.

 

Things have been different since I started leading, tho.

It probably does have to do with wheather or not Im willing to take the risk of falling like I would on TR. its strange how when I dont think about the risk, I climb better.

 

Ive been working hard at getting myself into the 'flow' state by doing a lot of long traverses. Its helped me pick up some good techniques which I carry over into tr'ing and leading (ie/closing my eyes, deep breaths, imagery, etc).

 

As Backes says, "your body is made of mostly water...water doesnt think...it just flows...be like the water when you climb". Might sound cheesy, but it seems the more I climb, the more sense it makes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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not true dru.. there is a hill in abbotsford..on the way to some bolt clipping at sumas mountian... where you can see many indian gentleman marveling as they pour water on the ground and watch it flow uphilll... but it is afterall an optical illusion... pretty nifty tho nonetheless hahaha.gif

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Well, its a good thing I need practice on my downclimbing skills then, eh?

 

Doesnt water start flowing north at a certain point in the mississippi (I should know this, seeing that it begins in the state I live)? Or rivers flow north in canada? Something like that?!?!? North is UP!

 

 

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the hydrographic divide between the Arctic and Atlantic begins at snow dome* and meanders eastwards like a drunken snake trying to bite its own tail

 

it is a folk legend, typically found amongst peasants of the american midwestern (flat) states that water has a preferred compass direction to flow. rolleyes.gif

 

 

* carolyn ask Backes about Snowdome hahaha.gif

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Dru said:

water only flows downhill hahaha.gif

 

only in subaerial setting smile.gif

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Dru said:

sumas mountain sux thumbs_down.gif mud with missing hangers

 

tru dat... f-in SAR takes the bolts.... most can still be led on trad tho if you are good with gear placement... but it is likely R/X rated ...bastards

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It's weird though, sometimes I notice just the opposite. When I'm leading I climb bolder, when I'm seconding I get a little timid sometimes. Or think "Glad I didn't have to lead that." But when it's my lead I just do it, falling isn't an option. It is definitely normal to feel uncomfortable when you start leading, nothing to worry about.

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