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Cragging at the Okanogan


catbirdseat

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I am up visiting a friend in the Okanogan in the beautiful mining town of Nighthawk. I couldn't help noticing some cliff faces East of Hwy 97 to the South of Oroville. Does anyone know if they have been explored? It appears that access would be problematic as there is a lot of private property all around. I can't see why anyone would drive all the way out here unless it was something special and I don't think it is, but regardless, I am curious.

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As Szy says, stuff east of 97 is private. Don't mess! However, if you feel like an alternate drive back, go straight south from Nighthawk along dirt roads. Instead of heading back east to 97, keep going south and they will eventually hook you up to highway 20 right near Loup Loup Pass between Omak and Twisp. It's all public--mostly national deforest land. Along the way you will find some granite boulders and small granite crags if you keep your eyes open. You might find the China Wall, a huge old mill foundation made of granite blocks 30 feet tall and hundreds of feet long. But this IS private. Use discretion or just appreciate it from the road.

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Catbirdseat:

I agree with Szyjakowski that there are some real access problems (and where to park problems) with the crags near Oroville. If you come over here again, send me a PM and I'll try to help.

I disagree with Szyjakowski about rednecks and guns. I believe you'll find more rednecks and guns in Shoreline than in the entire Okanogan Valley.

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The people up there seemed really friendly. I think that if you are friendly, others will be friendly back.

 

While I was up there I noticed an abandoned railroad right of way on the other side of the Okanogan River from the road between Oroville and Nighthawk. It looks like it would be a totally awesome mountain bike ride. There is even a tunnel. I am told it is closed and posted no trespassing, but that permission can be obtained (and key to the gates). Someone ought to write the Oroville Chamber of Commerce. They are sitting on a potential tourist draw that could bring more $$$ to the area.

 

Here's the bad part of my weekend: I got home to find that my son had taken my truck without permission, without a license and wrecked it. It is in impound as I write and I have no idea how badly it is damaged. Isn't that just wonderful?

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. I believe you'll find more rednecks and guns in Shoreline than in the entire Okanogan Valley.

 

Oh my God! I live in Shoreline. I think you have to differentiate between urban rednecks and rural rednecks. Really it's just a state of mind, but to find redneck in it's truest form, ya gotta be out in the sticks. Nothing against small towns, I grew up in one, lots of good people.

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  • 10 months later...
  • 8 years later...

Ten years later... old thread but still the rock is sitting there.

 

Wanted to add my 2 cents worth in case you're ever in the area again and want to climb those gneiss cliffs. There is actually a lot of rock in the northern part of Okanogan county that is on public land (FS and BLM), but a couple of the places do have access issues.

 

The cliff east of Hwy. 97 just before Oroville is called Whistler Canyon, and it is now being promoted as a no-fee recreational access point to the West side of Mt Hull by the county (hunting, hiking, horse and mtn bike riding as well as climbing). There is a smooth dirt road going right to the base of the cliff (not well marked). There are now 31 established routes on this compact but varied crag, mostly bolted, ranging from 5.3 to 12+. There are also more developed areas to the West (along upper Toats Coulee), and south along 97 - the lower SW face of Mt Hull and Burge Mtn East of Tonasket. In short, lots of great climbing, some of it is written up on rockclimbing.com.

 

As for secret and restricted - there are areas that fit that description south of Tonasket and around Omak, but there is plenty of public rock for the rest of us to the North. The largest area of good rock (SW Face of Hull) has tremendous route potential from bouldering to 600' multipitch, but easy access is still an issue as private orchard land has to be crossed in some areas. There are public access areas, but they are not obvious or direct. But from mid April to October you have to be prepared to share it with the rattlers and mtn sheep.

 

For more info on Whistler Canyon stop by the Tonasket visitors center as you're driving through town.

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Good point about the tourist draw - and the county has been working on it. There is a wonderful trail now along the old railroad line from Oroville to Enloe Dam (really cool place), but it stops there and is officially restricted through the tunnel.

 

The rumor is they are going to build a new dam above the old and so flood much of that section of the Similkameen...

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  • 5 months later...
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The Trailhead road is a white rock road straight across from Gavin road, drive up the left fork to the parking area, 1/8 of a mile off the road. The Backcountry Horsemen of Okanogan beautified the area nicely and fixed up the trails.

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Chris, access to the trailhead is well marked on the highway, but the climbing routes are not - yet. I'll be putting up a map/topo and list of routes on the back side of the parking lot kiosk soon, and there is some beta on the crag already on rockclimbing.com. Most of the routes have bolts, but usually require gear if there are cracks. Beware of loose rock and rattle snakes!

 

rich_on_vapor_trails.jpg

 

(RB, local climber on Vapor Trails (5.11d **)

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