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MysticNacho

N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart ?

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Hey b,

 

We took a 37meter 7.8mil up the North Ridge, and climbed with it doubled the whole way.

 

On the Gendarme, it BARLEY reached the 1st belay at the top of the pillar, and I had to belay a bit short of the best stance on the second pitch.

 

It worked well because I was able to pull one strand through to haul the packs with, but we BARLEY got away with it. A 30 meter doubled would definately not reach.

 

I'm not sure how youd make it work with three people and a 50 meter...

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Lambone said:

Hey b,

 

We took a 37meter 7.8mil up the North Ridge, and climbed with it doubled the whole way.

 

On the Gendarme, it BARLEY reached the 1st belay at the top of the pillar, and I had to belay a bit short of the best stance on the second pitch.

 

It worked well because I was able to pull one strand through to haul the packs with, but we BARLEY got away with it. A 30 meter doubled would definately not reach.

 

I'm not sure how youd make it work with three people and a 50 meter...

 

Not sure either but it sounds like it'll work. Apparently have to pitch the rope down for the 3rd. Thanks, Barry

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I think a 50 would get you all up the Gendarme. First person leads on doubled rope. The other two follow separately on single strands.

 

The problem I see with your plan is that having three people climbing is going to either cause you to go real slow (pitching it out [with 25m pitches hellno3d.gif] the whole way up the ridge), or increase the danger (simuling with three people).

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yeah, chucks got it right.

 

definately bring a Reverso if you do it that way with three. Good luck! Keep movin!

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I wanted a 30 m thin single rope, not a 30 m half rope. Anybody want to buy a 60 m 10.2 Mammut Supersafe and split it down the middle with me?

 

Our doubled-up 60 m half rope was heavy, bulky and messy and we used the two strands as a single rope the whole way anyway.

 

The 60 m half rope would be perfect with three people - two carry packs, third carries rope on approach, leader climbs without a pack and followers climb with packs. Bring the reverso!

 

Edit - a doubled 50 m half rope would work nicely for the first pitch on the gendarme. I don't know about the second pitch, you'd better have the right pieces to build the anchor wherever you are when you run out of rope. I would not like to do it that way I think.

Edited by fleblebleb

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My partner Larry and I did the N. Ridge on Sunday using a 60m half rope that we doubled up. Originally the idea was to just use it as a single strand but the rope drag was heinous and slowed us down considerably. So we doubled it and it made for really nice, comfy simulclimbing. We had none of the rope management problems that Fleb noted above. As a matter of fact, I would recommend this method.

 

I will second the recommendation for crampons on the traverse. Although not absolutely necessary if you're wearing heavy boots (I was wearing la sprotiva approach shoes) that you can kick steps in, you'll feel one hell of a lot more comfortable with crampons.

 

For a rack we brought 4 cams (green camelot, black metolius, purple metolius and #4 camalot), a rack of hexes and a rack of stoppers. We never used all of our gear. We were moving slow so bypassed the gendarme which in hindsight might have actually been faster.

 

Bugs weren't bad down by Ingalls Creek nor anywhere on the route. They were heinous at Longs Pass and the trail ascending it. Fuckers were divebombing my eyeballs.

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Good points Chuck. We're comfortable simuling fast with the party of 3 we have. I think we'll just have to make the 50 meter half rope work on the 2nd pitch. Damn this route is always full of compromises.........

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How cold would you bivy folks say it's getting up there? I'm looking at doing the Stuart Traverse and am trying to collect some info about the current conditions. I know there's snow on the top of cascadian, did you see any snow on the Sherpa ridgeline or anywhere else as the ridge heads towards the area of Dragontail?

 

 

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Jarred_Jackman said:

How cold would you bivy folks say it's getting up there? I'm looking at doing the Stuart Traverse and am trying to collect some info about the current conditions. I know there's snow on the top of cascadian, did you see any snow on the Sherpa ridgeline or anywhere else as the ridge heads towards the area of Dragontail?

 

I'd say it's............hell.........30 degrees at the bivi site.

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