Heinouscling Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 Lets git er goin again folks. One more for the gipper. This ones for you Drul. -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 Location: S Arete S Early Winter Spire Cast:MeMy girlfriendThe ubiquitous loud female Mtnr trip leader1000+ basic students1 very hesitant basic student Story:After several hours sunbathing the final Mtnr rope team started up the route! Loud lady, who hadn't shut up in the last 10 years, was belaying hesitant student, who was becoming more hestitant by the second. Loud lady was out of sight, but certainly not out of earshot. She continued to bark orders and share her unsolicited opinions with everyone from Marblemount to Mazama. It appeared that she had forgotten how to belay as there was 15+ feet of slack in the rope as hesitant student approached the crux move 15 feet off the ground. Hesitant student cried. hesitant student wimpered. Things looked bad. In a fit of self righteousness I yelled up to loud lady "Up rope on your follower". Loud lady yelled back "Fuck you!" Huhhh? Hesitant student still cried, still wimpered. Once again in the face of adversity I yelled up "Up rope on your follower". Silence.... What will loud lady say next I wondered? Soon the rope snaked away leaving hesitant student on an adequately tight belay as she manuvered through crux. As the day wore on I had the pleasure of sharing a belay ledge with loud lady who offered some sort of apology like "Oh, I didn't understand what you had said". Right... Beware, the Mtnrs Loud Lady. [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: dberdinka ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Sounds grim. I've barely sprinted ahead of some large groups of them on the SEWS. They were nice, but awfully slow. I assume that you mean the S Arete route for this incident report? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Climb High and myself had just enjoyed an ascent of the East Ridge of Ingalls and were preparing to descend the South Face when we were met by a large band of Mountaineers in various stages of ascent. We down climbed well off to the side of the pack train. One of the senior Mountaineers yelled at us for knocking rocks down on them. It was actually their own lead rope team dislodging rocks with their rope. I think they were just pissed because we were down soloing, in tennis shoes, what they were taking as a 'serious route'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 DPS: What did you think of the Ingals East Ridge Route? And I totally agree on the Mountaineers....god damn they take a beating on this site. Except to say they keep them herded tight so we can avoid them and they do GENERALLY climb safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 ingalls east ridge is quite fun and a relaxing, i personlly recommend srating on the w(?) peak and traverse the whole group.....makes for a fun easy day..... i think it is a better route then the s face, just cause there is a little exposure and some fine ridge climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_page Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 I did that S Arete route with an ex-mountaineer girlfriend who claims her "intermediate" group spent 13 hrs on it. They had to flashlight back to their cars. She and I took our lunch and thirty minutes to the summit. Go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelly Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Let us not forget the Mazamas and their antics......I could go on, and on, and on! Have the Mountaineers killed anyone on the S. South of Hood? Or do the Mazamas have an exclusive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 [ 01-23-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 17, 2002 Author Share Posted January 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Richard Pumpington: I've heard the Mazamas have the highest mortalityrate of any mountaineering club in the U.S..They'renumber 1! They're number 1! Hey, suck my asshole Little Dickhead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Time for some meds to help with the tourrettes heinous. I've encountered the mazamas on several outings, almost exclusively on Hood where they stick with the "strength in numbers" adage. Their (abysmal) safety record aside, their manners and mountain ettiquette alone leave me with a bad taste. I go out of my way to avoid those schmucks. I've never knowingly encountered the mountaineers on anything but if they were the group on Liberty Bell when I did it in July then they have a lot in common with the mazamas. Ick. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 I took a buddy up "The Tooth" last summer. It was a good time and there were about a dozen Mountaineers in the vicinity. We got trapped in the rappel cluster but they were nice enough to let us slide down their rope. Anyway, there were a few of those characters behind us on the way out and they were asking each other who their Mountaineers Mentor was, a concept I found to be hilarious. I didn't get the whole story but from what I could piece together, there might be some deal where a Basic Student is paired up with an Intermediate Student or some such for the purpose of sharing alpine wisdom and guidance. Hmmmmmm.....sounds like the blind leading the blind given that many of the "instructors" of the Basic Course seem to be graduates from the previous year, and given that most of Intermediate "graduates" I've encountered have been utterly incompetent. Anybody know about a Mountaineers "mentoring" program? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Re Mtneers on SEWS: It's remarkable to see someone with what looks like a big wall rack heading up a climb that only has one or two Class 5 moves. Of course, with that much weight holding you back, you've just made most of the climb Class 5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Point taken, Phil, but there's so much beta on that route that even a complete beginner should be able to determine they would be fine with a modest amount of gear. The leader of the trip I saw had a double set of cams, quite a few nuts, and at least 20 runners. This despite the Mtneers sending at least two trips up there almost every weekend from late spring to early fall. Who knows, though... perhaps she was practicing up for The Nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 philfort: I agree. You gotta start somewhere. Maybe we should have a thread called "I sucked" or perhaps "the Mountaineers suck, and you did too!" Making fun of bumblies is fun though. Unfortunately it's tough to make it not mean-spirited. However, the Mountie climbing courses are supposed to be TEACHING beginners how to climb. When they take on the teaching, it is implicit that they are somewhat proficient. If you were taking some newbies up SEWS would you bring a set of cams, a set of hexes and two sets of stoppers? While it's a bit mean-spirited to make fun of newbies who have only good intentions, it's a different thing to make fun of some minimally proficient guy taking on a role as expert leader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 17, 2002 Author Share Posted January 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: ive got huge gear and had it even when i was a beginner. My gear is huge too but it wasn't until I was well into my teens that it started getting really HUGE! -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.E Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 Okay, I went waaaay out of my way on the hog's back on hood once to stay away from Mazama group and one of them wandered over (I presume to see a "real climbing group") and stepped on my rope in crampons. I have had a bad taste in my mouth for 15 years over that one. I'm not bitter though. I guess when a person's gear is huge, it is hard to keep track of it around other people's and thus it sometimes becomes a problem. Okay, I'm over it. Mountaineers: The blind leading the bumblies. Yes, I was a beginner once: I didn't pretend to be otherwise and thereby call myself an "instructor." On the upside, I've enjoyed watching mounty synchronized headlamp shows from Boston Basin and elsewhere long after I've been in camp--so they do provide entertainment as long as they aren't on the route in front of you. So, Here's to you mounties Join the WAC if you want a good climbing club. Their motto is: Never let judgement sway desire.It has worked for me for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: I took a buddy up "The Tooth" last summer. It was a good time and there were about a dozen Mountaineers in the vicinity. We got trapped in the rappel cluster but they were nice enough to let us slide down their rope. Anyway, there were a few of those characters behind us on the way out and they were asking each other who their Mountaineers Mentor was, a concept I found to be hilarious. I didn't get the whole story but from what I could piece together, there might be some deal where a Basic Student is paired up with an Intermediate Student or some such for the purpose of sharing alpine wisdom and guidance. Hmmmmmm.....sounds like the blind leading the blind given that many of the "instructors" of the Basic Course seem to be graduates from the previous year, and given that most of Intermediate "graduates" I've encountered have been utterly incompetent. Anybody know about a Mountaineers "mentoring"..... The mentor program is someone who has been through the basic course (at least)who is available for hands on help with assignments in the basic course Got together with mine once to review tieing off a fallen climber. Some of them are very involved and others ya can't get to live up to their promise of being at least somewhat available . Guess it sounded noble to them at the time of signup but not such a good idea when the phone started ringing. : [ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: Dan Larson ] [ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: Dan Larson ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.E Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 A further thought: perhaps the mazama death rate stems from them stepping on people's ropes with crampons. Someone less understanding than the gentle, friendly guy than I am might have killed the guy who punctured my rope. Is Heinous a Mazama? Why the scathing reply? If I were a member of one club, I would be careful making fun of the other. Except the WAC of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 bobinc: isn't that true of all climbers when they start though? When I first did SEWS, I think we had a pretty huge rack too, even though we were a private party. Or were most people on this site already experienced climbers to begin with??? Most of you are sounding like you were never beginners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 ive got huge gear and had it even when i was a beginner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 hey dwayner - i got the scoop on mentoring from a frien who recently took the course. basically, they hook up four or five basic students with a "mentor," who schedules additional practice sessions, etc. outside of the regular course. The idea is to give people some additional practice time in a low pressure, non-graded environment with low instructor-student ratio. Many mentors also schedule extra climbs (for which students get credit) or conditioning hikes. I think that the mentors are supposed to be on the Mountie's "leader's list" (for what that's worth) and so at least usually aren't just first year intermediate students. according to my friend, the mentoring setup was the best thing about the course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr.E: Is Heinous a Mazama? Why the scathing reply? If I were a member of one club, I would be careful making fun of the other. Except the WAC of course. I think H might not like lil'dick thus the scathing, but I don't know for sure. I think the main reason the WAC escapes the wrath of many people is that they are a much smaller group; not high profile like the mounties. I made the mistake of volunteering to teach a WAC class one time. I went on a few different field trips and then we went to Mt Erie. I went early to help set up TR anchors. I was just there to help. I didn't have any desire to be the boss, but I soon found out everyone else wanted to be the boss. One person would tell me one thing to do and then while I was doing what they ask someone else would would come up and start yelling at me for doing what I was ask. That became my last WAC adventure. The WAC makes a big production out of their dislike of the mounties, but I think it's just envy. [ 01-18-2002: Message edited by: AlpineK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 [ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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