Attitude Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 No pay to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_w Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Can't forget Royal Arches (5.7 A0). Something like 14 pitches of easy climbing. You can get on it at sunrise and if you simul-climb it, you can be off it before it gets too hot. If you feel comfortable on low 5th class you can run out the gear and take a light rack. You can get away with about 8-10 cams from a yellow TCU to #2 camalot. Just get on it before a line forms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 chris_w said: Can't forget Royal Arches (5.7 A0). Â whoa; that's a must-do then! simul-climbing and runouts sound like loads of fun!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 TLG, do you have the Supertopo guides? We used "Yosemite Valley Free Climbs" for our trip a month ago. Well worth however much my partner paid for it. Great beta, good routes, and well laid out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 Ursa_Eagle said: TLG, do you have the Supertopo guides? no. will you draw me some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 super tacos are cheating.............. Â i dont want to know what gear goes at what stance and how many 5.7 moves are on each pitch!!!!!!! Â super tacos are for weakmo's!!!!!!!!!! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 all i got to say is midterm on reeds is a hard fing 5.9 holy shit. but central pillar frinzy is very cool(on middle cath) though the 5th picth can be skiped with out missing much, and wrap off the route even if there are 8 parties below you, e-rock and i almost fucked are selves trying to rape off the to the left of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coondog Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 TLG: you'd asked for something a lil 'harder;' dunno what's 'harder' for you, but I found Serenity Crack (10d, 3p) + Sons of Yesterday (10a, 5p) to be one of the best days I had in the valley. I flailed on leading the crux of Serenity for about 5 min with a couple guys hanging out at the belay 10' above me taking my picture & flippin me shit and still had an awesome time on it... Serenity was sweet climbing up pin scars with a brief crux... Â If you climb the 5.9 var of Nutcracker BEWARE THE LEDGE! I might have sprained my ankle a wee bit on it when I peeled off the extremely greased holds above the one spot where you can manage to squeeze in an alien... Â And would suggest doing a 'finale' climb like Snake Dike before you leave, though I'm not sure you could actually carry enough water for it this time o' year... Â If Camp4 is full, I suggest making friends with folks who have a site... I dirtbagged as a 'friend' of a site for about a week no problem... helps... Â And everyone's tellin you it'll be packed, too hot, too buggy, they're all sold out of horsecock & bier, or whatever because they're so damn jealous someone's going down there... Be sure to drop the juicy TR to really rub it in. Â Have an awesome trip. Except for the internet connection, work sucks... Â --jealous cd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 erik said: Peter_Puget said: Reed Pinnacle Direct 5.9 Â HAHAHAHAHA Â SEND!!!!!!!! Â Â I was gonna say the same thing! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 woops reeds is cool mid term is on arch rock, but it is suposedly 5.9.. my bad i'm a dumb ass bla bla bla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Coondog said: And everyone's tellin you it'll be packed, too hot, too buggy, they're all sold out of horsecock & bier, or whatever because they're so damn jealous someone's going down there... Be sure to drop the juicy TR to really rub it in. Â I JUST GOT BACK!!!!! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceScrewed Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 The Valley for the first time....lucky you! Forget the heat...try and climb on N facing rock (i.e. Braille Book, NE Corner of Higher Cathedral Spire, E Buttress of Middle Cathedral (yes it's rated 10 something but it's only a few moves and is easily done "freedom free"). And then there's Snake Dike (a nice camp out among the bears but then you can do the climb at sun up and be down at the falls for a dip at the major heat of the day). Other climbs that you'll just have to suck up the heat and do include After Six, Nutcracker, and Royal Arches. Don't forget to write... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 IceScrewed said: E Buttress of Middle Cathedral (yes it's rated 10 something but it's only a few moves and is easily done "freedom free"). is that the same as "french free"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Just got back on Sat. Here's my TR: Had an awesome trip. Â Some things to keep in mind this time of year. The mosquitoes have mutated so that no form or amount of Deet keeps them at bay. Camp 4 in the valley is pretty empty (of climbers that is) at the moment. Lots of families and people who didn't have a campsite reservation are there. Crying kids and people who don't really get the dirt bag poaching thing. Some people in my site were pretty bitchy about the fact that there was a bunch of food stored in a bear box that they thought was "theirs" and we didn't know whose it was. I think they seriously considered tossing it out until we clued them in. Â TLG - Go check out the Valley, get inspired. To get used to the rock and cracks on some of the crag stuff at Church Bowl (CB Layback and Bishop's Terrace - one of my favorite 5.8 cracks and a good guage about whether you can lead Yos 5.8). Climb Munginella and Commitment at the Open Books (you must wear a helmet here! Very loose rock above and a potential death/serious injury zone if you don't.) Get on Royal Arches and think about skipping the last pitch and rapping the route to avoid the hike down North Dome Gully. Or do the pitch and have an adventure descent. Whatever you're into that day. Snake Dike is fun, but it is way to f'in hot to do that thing this time of year. Â If you're feeling like you want to climb polished granite go enjoy the crowds at the 5.9 classics Nutcracker and Jam Crack. If you're into wide cracks and chimneys check out Braile Book. Remember that even though it is rated 5.8 it is way old skool. Â Hit the Meadows to boulder and at least check out West Crack on Daff Dome. Some of everything and only the first few moves are 5.9. Good pro and some funky moves to pull the roof on the second pitch. The slab climbs on Stately Pleasure Dome are good if you're into that sort of thing. Some of the bolt are pretty spaced out. Cathedral Peak is certianly worth the 1.5 hour hike to get to the base. Unless your partner will rope gun you the majority of the Regular Route on Fairview, I'd skip it. Didn't think the climb was THAT great and a lot of the pro seemed run out or tricky to me and I wasn't leading it. Â Then my recommendation would be to spend the rest of your trip hanging out at Lover's Leap. Awesome free camping and some of the best moderate granite crack and face climbing in CA. You will likely feel a lot better (aka find inspiration) to wind out the trip there and hone your lead skills than flailing on sandbagged cracks in the Valley. Â My 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My_xxxth_Avatar Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Roger that Jam Crack, Nutcracker, Munginella, and Commitment. fyi Nut is only 5.8. Climb Snake Dike on a good moon night and avoid the heat and the tourons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 My_xxxth_Avatar said: Roger that Jam Crack, Nutcracker, Munginella, and Commitment. fyi Nut is only 5.8. Climb Snake Dike on a good moon night and avoid the heat and the tourons. Â Only done the 5.9 variation on Nutcracker. I hear the 5.7 start is harder than the 5.9, but don't know since I haven't done it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 YEAH RIGHT, THE GREASE EXPOUNGING .9 CRACK IS SUCK. Â AND THE .7 FLAKE START IS THE ORIGINAL..... Â AND .8 LAY BACK IS THE BEST START! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 here's a second recommendation for Church Bowl Lieback. Excellant climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.rose Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 lawgoddess when are you going to yosemite? I will be there 7-13 to about 7-26 would be happy to climb with you if you're arround then. I'm kinda the fun in the sun cragging type so I don't have any big wall beta , however I spent two months cragging down there last summer and here are some of my personal favorites. Reed's direct 5.10a, stone groove 5.10b, lunatic fringe5.10c, hard thin hands, midterm 5.10b {tips to chimney} Gripper 5.10b ,mostly hands &fists , English breakfast crack 5.10c , a variety of sizes small to o.w. ,Outer limits 5.10c ,killer hands and fingers, Meat grinder 5.10c ,mostly fist to o.w. Right side of the cookie 5.9 Central pillar of frenzy 5.9, Yin yang 5.10d , Sacher cracker 5.10a {well worth it to continue to the top of the slack}, Moby dick left 5.9 ,180 ft. of flared chimney, and Moby dick center 5.10a , fingers , hands ,and fists . hope this helps some and I hope to run into you down there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I was in Yosemite for 7 weeks last summer climbing and it was damn hot (90's and hotter!). Timing things just right can make it tolerable. Very early starts can get you high enough for cooler breezes during the heat of the day. Â Do that 3 pitch 5.9 next to Munginella in the afternoon for shade (NOOO don't do Munginella). Â Do Central Pillar of Frenzy, north facing. Â Do anything you can manage at Cookie Cliff after 2 PM. Â Get up extremely early and do the Serenity/Sons linkup. This is my favorite multi pitch anywhere. The 10d crux is a short breeze and the rest goes at 10a or easier. Â Do Snake Dike. Â Wearing a quality Camel back type of pack on climbs is nice for hydration. Â 30spf! Â I'll think of more later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Munginella is a good route, but it gets crowded fast and hot fast so get an early start - you may want to skip it though, as 5.6 in the Valley isnt any "harder" than 5.6 anywhere else. Â I don't think anyone has mentioned this, but a good alternative to Yos may be TAHQUITZ. There are alot of routes within your ability level that you will be able to lead there, with the same overall "old-school" effect as Yosemite. It is also at like 9000 ft, which makes it a bit cooler during the day. Plus Idylwild is a cool little town to hang in for a few days, camping nearby will be easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 thanks, ehmmic. i really appreciate the info and the further encouragement to go get inspired. Â k.rose said: lawgoddess when are you going to yosemite? Â i think distel and i are leaving a week from today, and we'll probably be down there for a couple of weeks. let's pm and meet up. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Take Alex's suggestion about Tahquitz seriously. True birthplace of the Yosemite Decimal System too, courtesy of Chuck Wilts. Wonderful granite, cracks & faces, multi-pitch, and sun or shade depending on the daily microclimate. Suicide right across the valley is awesome too. It will indeed be cooler than the big ditch, which will be hot and sticky for sure. Yeah yeah, you haven't climbed in Yosemite, so I understand you gotta check it out, but keep plan b in your back pocket. Â As another westside of the Sierra possiblity, consider Courtright Reservoir. Up high, nice and cool, like Tuoloumne but with free camping and without the climbers and tourists. Sequoia National Park also has some good stuff. There is a good guidebook available to boot. Really, 4000 feet is just too low in July in California. Â Here, a picture of Power Dome at Courtright. 5 to 7 pitches high, approach in rock shoes, walk down to the car. Just one of many domes there. Â Â Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 thanks for the other suggestions, but we're just hittin' yosemite this time. is it next tuesday yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Leave Tuesday morning. Drive to southern oregon, sleep. Drive to the Valley and pull in late. Sleep on your mat in line in front of the Kiosk and you're guaranteed a spot. 7 nights max until you sleep in line again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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