thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 or "what's everything a first-timer could ever want to know before going?" help me. i've been twice, but never as a climber ... so all i really know is why. i'm so excited i don't even know what to ask! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 THAT IT IS TOOOO HOT IN THE DITCH RIGHT NOW...CLIMB IN T-MEADOWS........ THERE IS NO FREE CAMPING. YOU CANT SLEEP IN YOUR CAR. ONLY MANY DAZE AT INDEX WILL PREPARE YOU! AND IT IS TOO HOT IN THE VALLEY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 2 items to start: Get ready to get schooled on cracks; keep in mind many of the early Index climbers spent time in Yosemite. Don't go in the middle of summer unless you like crowds and a dry throat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 erik said: THAT IT IS TOOOO HOT IN THE DITCH RIGHT NOW...CLIMB IN T-MEADOWS........ we will definitely be hitting the meadows, but i'm not going to bypass the valley. no way, dude. i can deal with some heat. i can get up at 4am and hit rock at the first break of dawn. don't tell me what i can climb *after* i'm an index hardwoman; tell me what i might be able to climb now. mmm'kay? bobinc said: Get ready to get schooled on cracks; keep in mind many of the early Index climbers spent time in Yosemite. i am SO ready to be schooled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 didnt tell you anything?!?!? about what you can or cannot climb...there you go again, attempting to make something personal that is not.....sheesh...... nevermind.....you dont need the beta.. have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 thelawgoddess said: i can deal with some heat. i can get up at 4am and hit rock at the first break of dawn. don't tell me what i can climb *after* i'm an index hardwoman; tell me what i might be able to climb now. mmm'kay? i am SO ready to be schooled. I guess the questions are: are you looking to lead or follow, crag or do multipitch and at what level? That'll narrow it down a bit so we can give suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 thelawgoddess said:no way, dude. i can deal with some heat. i can get up at 4am and hit rock at the first break of dawn. Like erik said - get ready to stand in line. And WTF is up with getting up at 4am for a 5 minute approach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 erik said: didnt tell you anything?!?!? about what you can or cannot climb...there you go again, attempting to make something personal that is not.....sheesh...... huh? did you get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning? i'm not mad at you, and i'm not saying you're worthless. i actually want your beta, dude! i just want some specifics -- like, WHAT exactly should i look at climbing NOW? i've been to the meadows and it's huge ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 midnight lightning at midnight! nevermind this 4am stuff. just go to bed at 9am and get up at 10pm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 where are you leading??? the meadows is not really an area where you can get on most things at your level.. do cathedral peak....its real fun like w crack, cresent arch both on daff climb all the ones at stately pleasure dome lucky streaks, reg route on fairview the lamb haas some good ones east cottage dome for knobs! river crag for busy hot days. dike route on pyiwack matthes crest-link echo peaks-link unicorn peak-link lembert dome has some good ones good bouldering at puppy dome and near stately pleaure dome most routes are run the fuck out!!!! be prepared to climb continusaly at the grade with little to no gear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 ehmmic said: I guess the questions are: are you looking to lead or follow, crag or do multipitch and at what level? That'll narrow it down a bit so we can give suggestions. if my partner will lead hard stuff, i'll go with that flow, but um ... i guess i'm looking more for info from the leading trad up to 5.9 vantage point. i prefer multi-pitch but i'm up for cragging, too. (gear recommendations would also be helpful, because i think my rack is lacking in pieces.) also, suggestions on harder 10's are welcome ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth_Man Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 You wan't the truth? You can't handle the truth. Ok here it is anyway. You'll be very limited in what you can climb in the valley if you don't do 5.9/10 crack. Sure there's the nutcracker and some other easier climbs but not many, and what there are can have big crowds on them. It'll be hot, so maybe that will keep the crowds down. If you're doing a wall, don't buy into that big wall sandbagging shit. Walls are hard and scary, even the easiest of them. If you're going to the meadows be prepared to shit you're mind out in a tooth paste consistency. Climbs there are scaaaaaaaaaaaaaary. There's a few cracks, but for the most part you'll need to be prepared for some run outs. I don't know the area well, but Fairview dome has that 50 classic that isn't bad, but not great, and it also has Lucky Streaks which is ultra good and a crack all the way up for good pro. I guess in short I'm saying 'be prepared to be humiliated'. The only good way to prepare for the valley is with a trip to Indian Creek. That's my Yosemite advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 yeah .10 and .9 in the valley are way hard!!! you should think more like .7 and .8 at first and see how you do there...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Not sure what you are looking for but… Nutcracker with 5.9 variation start. CS Concerto 5.8(9?) Central Pillar 5.9 Reed Pinnacle Direct 5.9 Commitment 5.8/9 Maxine Wall and Peruvian Flake 5/9+ I’d say that in general the easier Valley routes aren’t as good as the harder ones. Consider stopping at Lover’s Leap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 okay; i'm taking my crack pipe for sure. thanks for all your suggestions and ... um ... warnings so far. for those of you who have some "serious" concerns, i'm not going down there because i think i'm a hot shit climber. i'm going because i need to go somewhere and i can't think of a better place for inspiration right now. i don't care if i get schooled or spanked (um, yeah) -- i just want to go climbing, have some fun, and realign myself with [my] universe ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 i'm sure whirlwind will find plenty of stuff to take you up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 erik said: where are you leading??? the meadows is not really an area where you can get on most things at your level.. do cathedral peak....its real fun like w crack, cresent arch both on daff climb all the ones at stately pleasure dome lucky streaks, reg route on fairview the lamb haas some good ones east cottage dome for knobs! river crag for busy hot days. dike route on pyiwack matthes crest-link echo peaks-link unicorn peak-link lembert dome has some good ones good bouldering at puppy dome and near stately pleaure dome most routes are run the fuck out!!!! be prepared to climb continusaly at the grade with little to no gear... TLG if you find leading Lizard and Ultrabrutal hard Erik's suggestions may be difficult leads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 erik said: yeah .10 and .9 in the valley are way hard!!! you should think more like .7 and .8 at first and see how you do there...... duly noted. and i actually already dumbed my ratings down in preparation. Peter_Puget said: I’d say that in general the easier Valley routes aren’t as good as the harder ones. thanks, pp. this seems to be the case in a lot of areas. maybe i'll have to find a ropegun to drag me up at least one "really difficult" *good* route while i'm there just for the experience. Mr._Natural said: i'm sure whirlwind will find plenty of stuff to take you up. i wish! Peter_Puget said: TLG if you find leading Lizard and Ultrabrutal hard Erik's suggestions may be difficult leads ultrabrutal was an easy lead. (heady on the traverse but i wasn't shittin' my pants or anything.) i haven't led any of the lizard ... yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Erik it was great to run into you down there. We did Daff Dome West Crack and some of the Stately Pleasure Dome climbs after we talked to you. Fairview (the 50 classic route), Matthes Crest, Cathedral and Eichorn were some other awesome climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 mvs said: Erik it was great to run into you down there. We did Daff Dome West Crack and some of the Stately Pleasure Dome climbs after we talked to you. Fairview (the 50 classic route), Matthes Crest, Cathedral and Eichorn were some other awesome climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picketeer Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 A few suggestions (and yes, T-Meadows, is awesome if it is too hot in the Valley). Arrive very early to get in line for a camp site at Camp IV. You can stay a week, $5/day. Free coffee (usually) on Sunday mornings when the climbing ranger gives an update and local climbers rant about various issues (too many new chicken bolts on the Nose, etc.) The Cathedral Rock apron climbs are a great way to escape the heat. Prepare to be schooled on friction! Awesome climbs to escape the crowds include the Cathedral Spires (Higher and Lower). The exposure at the top of Higher is memorable (1000-2000+ at your heels). Braille Book is a solid multi-pitch climb in the same vicinity. Yes, it's crowded on the Valley floor, but remember everything several hundred feet off the floor is designated wilderness and most of it is marked with cairn trails, if that. Yosemite has beautiful groves of Bay trees, Incense cedars, huge Doug fir and pondos. If you need an off day (to let your hands scab over from all the jams you will be doing), visit the UPPER Mariposa grove of Sequoias, go very early to escape the crowds. An excellent place to crag and escape the heat is to visit the Devil's Bathtubs on the cliffs above the Awahnee Hotel. Beautiful waterfall strands pour into pools perfect for soaking. Either class 4 or climb Peruvian Flake (5.9). The cragging at the base of El Cap is great. Just beware the sun And if you are into long free routes, Freeblast (1st day up Salathe) is stellar (start at sunrise, be prepared to rapel down the fixed lines at twilight, depending on all things). Gives my regards to the stone nation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Reed Pinnacle Direct 5.9 HAHAHAHAHA SEND!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 erik said: THERE IS NO FREE CAMPING. YOU CANT SLEEP IN YOUR CAR. options/suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 PAY TO CAMP IF IN T MEADOWS YOU CAN GO TO SADDLEBAG LAKE JUST EAST OF TIOGA PASS AND OUT OF THE PARK AND CAMP FOR FREE, AND THERE ARE BOULDERS THERE TOO IN THE DITCH, PAY TO CAMP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 Picketeer said: Gives my regards to the stone nation. dude, that's awesome. (beta that makes me even more excited to go really rocks my socks off!) i will look into your suggestions, and i will definitley give your regards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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