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Olympus questions....


pete_a

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Hoping to climb Olympus over the July 4th weekend. Want to go as light as possible...running shoes with crampons and all that silliness...but what I am wondering about is, will the snow be melted out enough that there will be running water around Glacier Meadows? I want to skip bringing a stove if at all possible. Anyone know? thanks!

While I'm asking....anyone have recommendations on how much and what (if any) pro should be brought for the summit pinnacle?

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Pete,

It depends on what you are comfortable climbing. Even though I was being a worry-wort, when I was there last summer and asked the team to stay roped and put in a piece or two, it wasn't really necessary as I found out. It's really just a class 5-ish scramble and the 5-ish part is really short. I think we only ended up using a tricam or two and mainly just threading the rope around natural formations.

Good luck, let us know where you meet the snow .

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  • 2 weeks later...

At the last minute we changed our plans and didn't end up going...saturdays forecast looked too soggy, and we didn't want to hike all the way in there only to get skunked. And our no stove, no bivy sack, and running shoes plan wouldn't have worked that well when the rain started. Oh well, I'll try later this summer...

Hope that EternalX was able to go, this hot weather would be perfect for minimalist travel to Olympus.

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Could've sworn i posted yesterday, but i don't see it here. Computer smart. Eternal dumb.

 

Anyway. I was on the trip with AlpinFox and he already posted the details in a previous thread. Basically the weather was great, the trail was very clear with steps kicked all the way to the top. It was pretty slushy when we went though and it seems like the stability of snow bridges is rapidly decreassing.

 

bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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Norman_Clyde said:

Anyone up for a one day excursion this September? This year I'm thinking of camping at the trailhead, 4 AM start, 8 PM return. But my feet will have to get tougher in the next 2 months if I give that a try.

 

Norman, someone needs to take away your track shoes. Couple of questions:

 

1) what is the car to car time record?

2) what was your elapsed time last year?

3) how many miles jogged (or do you plan to jog)?

4) rope?

5) what does the trophy look like?

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Flying_Ned,

I'm guessing Norman is more prepared and more fit for this go at Olympus than last year. The dude just ran some 50k trail run race with the hopes of winning. He's very driven and 16 hours sounds reasonable.

1) Blight says someone did it in 14 plus change

2) Something like 24:30? That with a 3 or 3:30 shiverfest at the meadows and we went up Snowdome on the left side. Plus I think that was the first time up there for all of us so I bet he has a strategy worked out now.

3) The trail is relatively flat. I guess for this you would need to jog a bit on the approach, say nine miles. Jogging out would be for 13 or so miles.

4) Take an 8mm glacier rope, 30m. Pro Mtn Sports sells them. Norman was cool without the rope on the summit climb last year, Sketch and I wanted it.

5) goddamn computer bullshit

 

stupid computer

goddamn computer bullshit, i can't even make a stupid image appear here.

 

We figured a couple of things to make it lighter would be that glacier rope versus the 50m, 9mm we took, and two pickets for three people (one on each end) versus one per person. Plus I bet Norman leaves the boots behind this year instead of packing them up.

I'll be the designated driver if y'all need one, as you'll be wasted on the return. Notice "y'all" is the active word here. I think I'll visit the coastline while y'all take that scenic hike HCL.gif

 

Norm, talk with sketch too. I can't remember when, but I think he was planning for another sufferfest.

212744-hooters.jpg.5e9ed98aea183093f4ce26917f7f0272.jpg

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I know I can not keep up with a 16 hour car to summit to car running fest. But I have a related speed question. Has any one ever biked the Hoh trail? Seems like on relatively flat trail, you could make some good time this way, with a light pack or better yet paniers.

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Flying_Ned, I think the answers are:

1)14 hours is the reputed record, as posted by someone in this forum last year. I believe this person was solo. He may also have had some equipment waiting for him at Glacier Meadows. It would be mighty hard to go this fast without those two factors in your favor.

2) Like Pencil Pusher said, 24 hours 30 minutes. PP came in about 30 minutes ahead of me. My feet pretty much gave out with 9 miles to go. PP was able to do some jogging the rest of the way, but a fast walk was all I could manage.

3) I would like to jog at least 12 of the 17 miles up to high camp. The first 9 miles are so flat and easy, with only a few roots for hazards, I think I could manage 4 to 5 miles an hour, maybe get to high camp within 4 hours. Same for the trip back, though the same thing as last year could happen to me again. If I can get the trail done in 4 hours each way, that leaves a reasonable 8 hours to the summit and back from high camp for a 16 hour round trip time.

4)Rope... that's the big unanswered question, mainly whether an undertaking as silly as this one justifies assuming the risk of solo glacier travel. Last year the crevasses on the Snow Dome were of very little concern, but there were a few wide moat crossings, which are only going to be wider this year with the hot weather. I would probably not be inclined to go for the summit solo/unroped. The alternative would be to hook up with an established party at a specified time and place, join them for the climb, then peel off afterward. Pete_A floated this idea to me recently. It's certainly more reasonable from a safety standpoint. Harder to arrange than a solo, but worth it.

5)The trophy exists only in the mind.

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Norm, talk with sketch too. I can't remember when, but I think he was planning for another sufferfest.

 

Currently, I am planning on giving this another shot on the weekend of Sept. 20th. I think this will be enough time for me to recover from the 100 mile sufferfest that I will be participating in at the end of Aug. in CO.

 

Remembering how strong you and Norman were when we tried it before, I can only imagine the hurt that Norman would put on me now that he's REALLY been training. Although I think I'm going to be better prepared this time, read: lighter F-ing pack, NO hiking boots. So Norm, if you think you might want a partner, who can't guarantee that he can keep your pace, shoot me an email

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My answer to that number 5 was a pic of those silicone Hooters girls Dwayner had put on another thread. Man that was so annoying trying to get it to display.

 

Anyhow, Norm/sketch... I got out in something like 4:17 from the Meadows so you should try to conserve some of that energy in the beginning, realizing you can get out in close to 4 on the exit. A four hour approach may be hard to recoup from mushsmile.gif

Maybe JoshK or swissman would be interested too. Or just start a new thread titled "Olympus death march" Suckers here love that stuff wink.gif

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Norman_Clyde said:

I would probably not be inclined to go for the summit solo/unroped. The alternative would be to hook up with an established party at a specified time and place, join them for the climb, then peel off afterward. Pete_A floated this idea to me recently. It's certainly more reasonable from a safety standpoint. Harder to arrange than a solo, but worth it.

 

That's an interesting idea, but you'll get an asterisk in the record book. I'd be happy to support your summit bid with two rested climbers, 60 meters of 9mm and a Cliff Bar. September looks great for this greybeard.

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Ned, Sketch, I will set aside the weekend of the 20th if I possibly can. September weekends are still unsettled work-wise, but I'll probably have to work at least two of them. If I can find the ideal pair of light hikers I might wear those the whole way, but in spite of PP's speculations I still may wear running shoes for the trail portion. Whatever footwear I end up using, I'd like to keep all my toenails this year.

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Pencil_Pusher said:

Maybe JoshK or swissman would be interested too. Or just start a new thread titled "Olympus death march" Suckers here love that stuff wink.gif

 

Damn...that would find me in a precarious prediciment. On another thread I can be quoted as saying that doing olympus in a day is just to chestbeat, but I must admit, the temptation of a scenic death march such as this really does have appeal. evils3d.gif So, with much backtracking and crow-eating I must admit that my 3 9000s day really is no more or less chest beating than olympus. Ok, there I said it. wink.gif

 

So, on the note of the actual feat...were you guys that did it runners before you did it? I have death marchs before but for the most part I almost never jog...I do cardio in other ways. Olympus is unique in that the effort is really more about distance over a long way rather than most deatch marchs around here which are shorter amounts of steeper trail. I'm wondering if that much milage done jogging would kill the legs of a non-runner. confused.gifconfused.gif

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Josh,

I am just an ordinary average schmuck who enjoys getting out and pushing myself to my limit and beyond every once in awhile. The only sport I ever did on a competitive level, and not very well, was road and mtn biking. I definitely wouldn't EVER call myself a runner because if you saw me coming you wouldn't need a stop watch to keep track of my pace maybe something more like a sundial.

 

That being said, when NC, PP and I did this last year at a walk going in and a semi-jog coming out, my legs burned for three days afterward. My pace was slowed by several key issues like the wrong shoes and a pack that was to f-ing heavy. Remembering all of that throughout the last year has helped me stay focused on doing it again in the sub 24 range and pushed me to run more often than what I did before. I don't think you need to be a runner to take part in this little adventure, but I think it will help your body deal with the brutality that is to come.

 

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sketchfest said:

I don't think you need to be a runner to take part in this little adventure, but I think it will help your body deal with the brutality that is to come.

 

I'm always amazed that when I first run after not doing it for a while, how sore my legs are. It's a motion that isn't very well simulated by anything else. So it sounds like for most part (at least on the way in), the pace is a very fast walk, huh? What are the distance totals, BTW? And, finally, when are y'all planning on giving this a go?

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Join us! Join us! rockband.gifsnaf.gifrockband.gif

A fast walk is much less punishing than a run. Pack weight is a big factor as well.

17.4 miles from trailhead to Glacier Meadows. About another mile to the glacier from there. Then about 3 to 5 miles of snow travel to the summit, fairly slow across the Blue Glacier and up to the snow dome, then easy low angle to the summit block. One pitch of simulclimbing or solo from there. The only uphill on the return is climbing back up the lateral moraine, about 400 feet of pure dust and misery. Otherwise, good trail all the way.

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