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Greatest Trad Route Name


Bob_Clarke

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Beckey is da shit. He tells you what you can do. Dont forget it
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I dont think there is another climber that I look up to more so chill buddy
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I think you missed my point, which was that there are a billion routes out there named simply "The Beckey route". Dru busted on routes named after the FA team, so direct the mad.gif" border="0 at him, I think Fred is an amazing dude.

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quote:

Originally posted by mattp:
"The Joke" is an old school test-piece at Bon Echo, in Ontario. On the first ascent attempt, the leader fell off and broke his leg. He healed, and went back for a second attempt. He fell off and broke it again. That's the joke (no joke).

The ice climb "Kitty Hawk" is named cause of all the air time logged by the 1st ascencionist.... 22 stitches i think... Air BC at pet Wall (SPORT ROUTE) has a similar story behind it...

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I have noticed around here (NC) that if you like your drawers to remain clean it is a good idea to avoid routes with names referring to the crag or area. "Welcome to Moore's Wall" for instance, or "Surry County Ethics". Every Damn one of 'em seem to be super scary runout leads on marginal gear. These guys were NUTS!!!!! While Becky was flailing through some slide Alder stand (comparison, not condecension,please don't hurt me!), many of these unsung Carolina pioneers were 30 feet above some shitty little nut 4 pitches off the deck. YIKES!!!

Also; "Head Jam" at Moore's, it's a big fat offwidth..... and "Shithook" which pretty much speaks for itself.

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I like 'Testicular Fortitude' at Peshastin - creeping up polished pebbles past a tri-cam in an arching sandstone flake - Last time I did it a few years back, my partner awoke a very distraught bat in the flake as he was seconding it - fortunately the bat had had the good manners to stay asleep as I was leading past.

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quote:

Originally posted by glacier:
I like 'Testicular Fortitude' at Peshastin - creeping up polished pebbles past a tri-cam in an arching sandstone flake - Last time I did it a few years back, my partner awoke a very distraught bat in the flake as he was seconding it - fortunately the bat had had the good manners to stay asleep as I was leading past.

I have seen dead bat carcasses there. It is actually called Testicle Fortitude wink.gif" border="0

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As for "Tale of Two Shitties," Heinous has some vague beta--as pointed out by RP. The 1st pitch is indeed loose, and "shitty." The 2nd pitch, however, is the reason to make the ascent--a spectacular roof/traverse crack on good quality rock. The 3rd pitch is runout to the final anchor (at least in June of 1999--maybe a bolt was replaced since then?). I recall that the "Two Shitties" were the first and last pitches, but that the middle pitch was stellar.

Have you climbed this route,Heinous?

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