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What boots for Forbidden, Goode, Torment?

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Experienced ski mountaineer/climber but new to the NW, never done glaciers/walking crampons. I'm going with experienced friends on 16 days w/ every 3rd day or so going back to the car. Mt. Goode, Torment, Forbidden, Boston, Sahale, et.al. At least one of them is doin La Sportiva Trangos and is pushing me in that direction. I've heard some people have used softer boots like a Vasque Sundowner, though strap crampons frequently pop off of these, I'm told. I got lo-cash and a pair of Sundowners already. Will I survive, or should I violate the credit card moratorium and get the Trangos?

Thanks!

Steve

 

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I'd consider water-proofing issues if you are going to be in that environment for several days. I guess you can always use a vapor barrier liner (or bread bags work if you got no cash) and take spare socks. So, basically, I hear you asking if the Trangos are a good walking boot and how much steep stuff you will encounter. Is that right?

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Experienced ski mountaineer, never done glaciers or walking crampons? I don't mean to poke fun, but that strikes me as odd.

 

Maybe not push it when choosing boots, methinks.

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fleblebleb said:

Experienced ski mountaineer, never done glaciers or walking crampons? I don't mean to poke fun, but that strikes me as odd.

 

Possible if he's from CO or UT...

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My buddy used his Vasque sundowners with aluminum strap on crampons on the North Ridge of Forbidden to good effect.

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fleblebleb said:

Experienced ski mountaineer, never done glaciers or walking crampons? I don't mean to poke fun, but that strikes me as odd.

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 

Possible if he's from CO or UT...

Yes I'm from Utah. You can summit many a winter peak there without putting on a crampon or a plastic boot. I use a Voile split board set-up with skins for ski mountaineering. Go ahead and poke fun but you might be in my neck of the woods someday... rolleyes.gif

 

I'm guess what I'm asking mostly is, what is the worst case scenario if I choose to go with the Sundowners? Some possible suffering or Really Stupid Risk? My buddies are suggesting I wear my fivetennies for approach; is the concern re: the walkability of the Trangos because people just wear these the whole time w/ no approach shoe?

 

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You'll get better climbing performance in the Trangos, both on the rock and with crampons on. Just make sure to waterproof either of them.

 

I'd pony up for the Trangos. My dos centavos.

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On the topic of the new Trangos...how waterproof are they? There fabric/fake-leather constriction looks a ittle shaky for wet conditions. Any first hand experience?

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Cripes almighty! What the hell do you guys think the FA was wearing on all of those peaks?

 

I don't think you'll die or loose any toes if you wear your Sundowners but, like GregW said, keeping them dry for 16 days of wallowing in snow will be an issue.

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Bronco said:

Cripes almighty! What the hell do you guys think the FA was wearing on all of those peaks?

sabertooth tiger skin mocassins

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A far as the Crampon issue goes, it all depends on what you'll be climbing in them. If you are just crossing gl;acxiers and basically kicking steps up moderate slopes, the sundowners should do all right. But if you are looking in to climbing where you actually need the front points I'd want more of a boot.

 

2 Cents

 

I do agree that I'd waterproof whatever you use.

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Don't violate the credit card moratorium. hellno3d.gif Have the other guys kick steps instead.

 

And my strap crampons have never fallen off.

 

 

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Rodchester said:

A far as the Crampon issue goes, it all depends on what you'll be climbing in them. If you are just crossing gl;acxiers and basically kicking steps up moderate slopes, the sundowners should do all right. But if you are looking in to climbing where you actually need the front points I'd want more of a boot.

 

2 Cents

 

I do agree that I'd waterproof whatever you use.

 

Perhaps this is presumptous but I thought waterproofing went without saying. Don't expect frontpointing. Much offline discussion has led me happily into the arms of the sundowners. Much appreciated ya'll.

 

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N Face Buckner with Sundowners and SMC crampons cinched tight. I don't know about Trangos but if you've already got the Sundowners, they'll do.

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Everytime we climb, let's ask for the correct type of boot children. Now repeat after me, always climb with big ass boot so leave big imprint in stupid climber ass.

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I can't comment on the current trangos (trango S?) but I have the previous model and they are not waterproof (or waterproof-able) at all. Too many seams and they don't have a one piece tongue. (Yes, I waterproofed the leather and sealed the seams.) Snow and water quickly make their way through the tongue. They are misery to walk in, too.

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Cpt.Caveman said:

my bud climbs anything he can in gore tex sneakers. You could get away with that if you have the right crampoons......

 

 

Gotta 2nd this one. I've got a pair of montrail something-er-other gore tex tennis shoes which I bought for approach shoes. I eventually found myself using them for more and more shit, including glacier slogs.

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JoshK said:

Cpt.Caveman said:

my bud climbs anything he can in gore tex sneakers. You could get away with that if you have the right crampoons......

 

 

Gotta 2nd this one. I've got a pair of montrail something-er-other gore tex tennis shoes which I bought for approach shoes. I eventually found myself using them for more and more shit, including glacier slogs.

Sneakers?!? eek.gif

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I had another thought this weekend for you, Breadbox. Take those chemical hand warmers stick them in your boots at night when they get wet. This might help dry them.

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