Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

      Help keep cascadeclimbers.com going!  Please consider donating so we can keep this site going.   We have set expenses right now but no revenue.  We do hope to getting a sponsor to help out, but for now we just need funds to upgrade the site and pay for hosting and licensing. See the "DONATE" tab in the top menu.
Sign in to follow this  
Mike

Maude/N Face TR

Recommended Posts

We were originally going to do Chimney Rock on Fri-Sun, but the weather pushed us further east into a Sat/Sun climb of Maude/N Face - and it was perfect! We hiked in to Leroy Creek basin on Saturday afternoon under cobalt blue skies with cool breezes. We bivi'ed at that 6800' knoll below the Jack-Maude col, worked on our farmers tans and watched the clouds hanging over the cascade crest. I managed to read most of Robert E. Howard's "Conan the Buccaneer" while hanging out in camp - it seems like cheesy action books with lots of voluptuous babes make for good reading when on climbs.

 

We got a lazy start at 5:30 on Sunday morning with crisp, cramponable snow up to the Jack-Maude col. When we popped out on the other side (6:20am) of the col, the snow conditions were sloppy soft. The traverse from the col to the N face was a pain in the butt - soft snow and Nelson's obvious traverse in "Selected Climbs" is not so obvious. The traverse was the crux of the trip.

 

Once you get to the N Face, the snow turns to BEAUTIFUL neve and you just cruise right up - good coverage and great snow conditions. We did running belays for the last 400 feet, but it felt unnecessary given the conditions and a second tool. We topped out about 10:30am and then basked on the summit before descending via the scramble route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, nice.

 

I dont think I'd do that traverse though. I know it would add a day but I think I'd camp at Ice Lakes and circumnavigate around on entiat glacier. But you've been there and I haven't - I guess it worked out for you so if the traverse goes then maybe thats the way to do it.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we did the traverse too, a couple of years ago. there was little/no snow on it. thought it was a bit cumbersome, but still prolly faster then going around the other side.

 

and if i ever went back entiat ice fall is the route i would climb!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike,

 

Were you guys the group of four that we encountered on the traverse over to the north face, yesterday (June 15)? If so, I think I have a digital picture of your group, that I can send to you.

 

We were the slow-moving party of two, Elain and Steve. wave.gif

 

Which descent route did you use? We clearly picked the wrong west-facing descent gully, ended up having do three 50m raps.

 

Cheers,

-Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

erik, that's funny, cause everybody I know who climbs the N face says it's boring and they'd only go back to climb the entiat ice fall. in any event, ice lakes are really cool. worth a look on their own right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ice Lakes did look nice, although they were still frozen over. I think Ice Lakes would go fine as a two day trip in the early season. It would have taken another two hours on the approach day, and then an easier - but lower - traverse the next morning. Then up the N face and an easy slog back to camp. The descent route was glissadable, so 500' up from the lakes and you're coasting down to Leroy Basin. You could probably also just camp up on the S. ridge, although there'll be no water later in the season when the snow melts.

 

We spent about two or so hours on the traverse which isn't that long if you're comfortable travelling on exposed, crummy third class terrain. We passed a couple who belayed the whole thing and I think they said that it took them five or more hours to do the traverse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stephen,

 

That was us. We descended the S. Ridge to about 8100' and descended that snow slope toward Leroy Basin. You could see it from where we camped as the farthest slope to the right with tracks.

 

Maybe we'll try the Entiat next time. We had fun, but it would have been cool if the upper N face was a lot longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×