kelz Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 I'm psyched, just purchased my tix for Thailand has anyone been? suggestions/recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 i was born there. but sorry, i don't really have any relevant info to give you. wish i was going, though. i've heard it's an amazingly beautiful place to climb. looking forward to your tr already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 My buddy is there right now! I heard its great limestone but be leary of the bolts... as the seaair makes them break sometimes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 It's a cool place. We got the hell out of bancock and Krabi ASAP and headed for the beach. Ray-Lay (Sp?) Beach is the most convienient place to stay, but not the cheapest. There are about 4-5 bungalo services to choose from, some better than others, some cheaper. Â Lots of cheap seafood! Â Bring yer sunscreen and chase the shade. Also, get a mat to help keep the sand off everything. Bring anodized biners if you have them, the salty air corodes regular aluminum pretty quick. There are some trad routes, but probly not worth bringing a rack. Â Get the guide book at the local shop (King Climbers I think...). It tells you what routes have been rebolted, stick to those. Most of the popular moderate routes have been rebolted, with big ring glue-in stainless steel jobs. Donate some $ for the effort. Â Enjoy, it's a great place, bring lots of chalk and drink tons of water! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 You'll want to check out a place called Railey Beach (Rai Leh... it's spelled a half a dozen different ways.) The area is remote but accessible by boat from Krabi. Most of the Krabi water taxis along the waterfront will shout out "Ao Nang, Ao Nang..." Tell the skipper you want Railey Beach. He'll drop you off on the way. Â The area is essentially a beach peninsula with beautiful limestone rock, monkeys and vegetation all around. I was there in '99, so it's been a while. At the time, accommodations were primitive (good for a dirtbag climber.) Unfortunately, I've heard the place has been quite developed. There are a number of climbing guides that teach one to three day climbing clinics. Te beaches are nice (as are the topless college aged hotties prancing around.) Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Dang it Lammy you beat me to the punch... Â One thing, Krabi has some great food, and cheap cheap. It's not heavilly touristed by farang, so get it while you can. Once you get to Railey or AoNang, it's tourist menues and tourist prices. Â Check out the Thorn Tree on the Lonely Planet site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Okay, so here's the deal. Â Walk out of the airport in Bangkok, continuing past the expensive guys offering you rides to a metered taxi stand outside. Say to a driver "Kao San Road", this is a code word they will understand fully. After a short drive your driver will stop. Get out, find a room, have a beer, meet some backpackers etc... Next day, get a tuk tuk to the Southern Bus terminal and hop a bus to Krabi. Â From there, (bus station in Krabi) arrange travel to Rai Ley; some dude at a 'travel agency' there can set this up (ride to Ao Nang, long tail boat to Rai Ley). Â Once at Rai Ley, all will be revealed to you. Â Endless, dripping, limestone walls and deserted pristine, white sand beaches. Your basic tropical paradise with tons of sport climbing, beach volleyball and other stuff too. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 (edited) All good recommendations. Here's some more info. Not sure how long you're staying or where you want to concentrate your time. There is climbing all over. Not just at Railay. But at Railay you'd be challenged to climb everything you want to in three week's time. You're unfortunately going during the rainy season and it should be more rainy down south from what I hear. If you're headed to Railay stay on Koh San road and if you have the day to spare I highly recommend hitting the Grand Palace (Emerald Budda) and Wat Po (Reclining Budda) before heading out of town. They're both very cool. You can check it out on your own, but you'll get more out of an English tour (at least at the GP). Make a donation at Wat Po to support the renovations and get blessed by a monk. It was one of the coolest things I did when I was there the second time. Â If heading out of town I recommend the train to the bus. You can get a sleeper seat which is pretty nice since the ride down to the penninsula is about 12 hours. You'll have to take a shuttle down to Ao Nang or Krabi from the train station. The place is totally set up for tourists and it's pretty easy to figure out. Then take a water taxi from there to Railay. Head to Tonsai rather than east or west railay. You will find very good accomodations and better food for way cheaper than over in Railay. It's about 1/4 mile on a trail or around the rocks at low tide. Or about 50 baht via water taxi from West Railay beach. Stay at the Hidden Village resort or the Andaman. Don't pay for all your days at once. They'll lower the per night prices the longer you stay but it's hard to negotiate this up front. Both are great and the Andaman has amazing fried bananas. On West Railay you will find a great Thai massage shop (clean and professional, and air conditioned) near the Railay village. For about $6 you can get an hour long Thai massage. A great way to end the day before falling asleep. Not sure if you're into it but you can get shakes at Mama's at the end of East Railay, just past the Diamond Cave resort. Â You can get guidebooks for the climbing at the shops in the area. The Keep is probably one of the coolest places I climbed. Hidden World is nice, Duncan's Boot and Low Tide Wall are a nice walk but pulling ropes at Duncan's is tricky to avoid the water. You have to check out the melting wall and climb through the cave on Thaiwand wall (do it in the daytime or with headlamp at night and bring a rope for the 25m rappel.)There are some hornets that nest near 1-2-3 wall so watch out when you put your hands in those oh so sweet pockets. They sting and it burns like a mf'er. I had a red spot on my upper arm for about 10 days... Â On my next trip I want to check out the granite bouldering over on Koh Tao and the developed limestone climbing up in the north near Chang Mai. If you have an opportunity to head up there send me some beta when you get home. Â Have a great time! I'm jealous. Â p.s. avoid the runny eggs if you don't want Salmonella. I got it on the way home fortunately and suffered in the comfort of my own home. 103.7 fever. I wanted to die. Cipro is a killer drug. It rocks! Edited June 12, 2003 by ehmmic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Some of the routes have also been bolted with glue-in titanium bolts. Don't let the people whining about how expensive it is in Ao-Nang or Railey throw you off. My wife and I stayed in a Studio apartment sized room with attached bath, AC, satellite TV and breakfast in Ao-Nang for $22/night two years ago. Â And there are the bamboo hut and ceiling fan places for the more hard-core travellers which are much cheaper yet. You can catch a direct flight from Bangkok to Krabi - might be worth arranging ahead of time. How long will you be in Thailand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelz Posted June 12, 2003 Author Share Posted June 12, 2003 thanks for all the great info boyz n' girlz! i'll only be there for 3 weeks & likely only climbing 1 of them. too much to do & see in such a short time. obviously i'll have to go back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelz Posted June 12, 2003 Author Share Posted June 12, 2003 (edited) ehmmic, i'm not going til sept, i thought the rainy season was oct/nov... Edited June 12, 2003 by kelz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Szyjakowski said: My buddy is there right now! I heard its great limestone but be leary of the bolts... as the seaair makes them break sometimes... Â You might want to read this article at the ASCA site: Â http://www.safeclimbing.org/seabolts.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 kelz said: ehmmic, i'm not going til sept, i thought the rainy season was oct/nov... Â My guidebook for Railay says that the rainy season is May-Oct. You may not have any issues. High season is Nov-Feb because it isn't as hot and not as rainy. I was there in Feb-March last year and we had 3 seconds of rain and many humid 95+degree days. Â Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted June 13, 2003 Share Posted June 13, 2003 Not sure if it was said, but cut up an old retiered rope and bring the pieces to sling holes. Alot of the slung holes have very sun-bleached and generaly crappy chord through them. Â What is a "slung hole" you may ask...ah you'll find out soon enough, eh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordonb Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 We are heading to Thailand in Feb. We have reservations in Railay for several days. We are trying to figure out what to do about gear, specifically the Rope. We are going directly from home through Bangkok to Krabi and climbing for most of the week, then we are going to do some other traveling. I would rather not haul something a bulky as the rope around with us. Â One option we are considering is to bring an old rope and leave it there when we move on. What have other people done? Is it possible to rent a rope? (that makes me uncomfortable in many ways) Â Any other suggestions for getting around Railay? We will probably hire a guide for the first day of climbing to help us get our bearings and then climb on our own after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted October 25, 2003 Share Posted October 25, 2003 you lucky dogs! Â Climbing in Thailand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted October 25, 2003 Share Posted October 25, 2003 Gordonb said: We are heading to Thailand in Feb. We have reservations in Railay for several days. We are trying to figure out what to do about gear, specifically the Rope. We are going directly from home through Bangkok to Krabi and climbing for most of the week, then we are going to do some other traveling. I would rather not haul something a bulky as the rope around with us. Â One option we are considering is to bring an old rope and leave it there when we move on. What have other people done? Is it possible to rent a rope? (that makes me uncomfortable in many ways) Â Any other suggestions for getting around Railay? We will probably hire a guide for the first day of climbing to help us get our bearings and then climb on our own after that. you are gonna blow a grand or two on your trip and youre stressing on how to manage a $120 item? 'penny wise pound foolish' you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted October 26, 2003 Share Posted October 26, 2003 Gordonb said: We are heading to Thailand in Feb. We have reservations in Railay for several days. We are trying to figure out what to do about gear, specifically the Rope. We are going directly from home through Bangkok to Krabi and climbing for most of the week, then we are going to do some other traveling. I would rather not haul something a bulky as the rope around with us. Â One option we are considering is to bring an old rope and leave it there when we move on. What have other people done? Is it possible to rent a rope? (that makes me uncomfortable in many ways) Â Any other suggestions for getting around Railay? We will probably hire a guide for the first day of climbing to help us get our bearings and then climb on our own after that. Â You can rent ropes, but I wouldn't recommend using them if you have an old one you can bring/leave behind. The climbing shops actually ask westerners to leave there ropes if they are old because they use them to replace the old threads on the routes. You will have no trouble getting rid of it. Â A question about your reservations...how much did you get quoted and which place are you planning to stay at? Â Tonsai is cheapest, then east railay, then west. Most of the rooms are pretty similar but the prices vary A LOT. In Tonsai I paid about 500 bhat ($13) for a room with 2 beds/ bath/& fan. I paid 800 bhat ($20) and 1200 bhat ($31 - got suckered when we arrived) for the same thing at another place over in E. Railay. And the Tonsai place was way nicer. Don't pay for all your days up front and renegotiate every time you go to the front desk to pay. They will drop the prices. But if your budget is unlimited, you might as well stay at the Dusit Resort. It's a 5 star place that goes for about $300 a night, and armed guards to keep out the dirtbags... Looks way pimp though. Â You can get a little bamboo/grass mat shack with mosquito netting and a fan for about 300 bhat over on Tonsai, but you will get a lot of bug bites and some people we knew had rats in their places. Â Enjoy your trip. You will love the really cheap great food. Fried bananas or a banana pancake (crepe) and a game of chess at the Andaman in Tonsai is a great way to wind down the evening, before the $7/hour Thai massage before bed. Â p.s. the hike down into the lagoon is totally worth it. It's waaaay cool 5.fun tree root scrambling. If you like to explore there are tons of cool caves and going through the ThaiWan cave at night would be cool. Bring a headlamp if you do the night ascent/rappel. Â I am soooo jealous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted October 27, 2003 Share Posted October 27, 2003 ehmmic said: $7/hour Thai massage before bed. Â HEY! You said $6/hr earlier!?!?! Inflation!?!? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted October 27, 2003 Share Posted October 27, 2003 I forgot to include the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted October 27, 2003 Share Posted October 27, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue_morph Posted October 27, 2003 Share Posted October 27, 2003 Ton Sai Beach is just up from Rai Leh and a lot more chill. Last time I went (01) we stayed in a nice (private bath, ceiling fan, clean, etc.) place for about $10 a night. Who needs tv? Seriously, Ton Sai will feel a lot more homey than the scene at Rai Leh. You can get back and forth between the two by walking at low tide, or by quick water taxi. Â Bring the rope you care the least about and just leave it there, its not worth renting their junk. Â I don't remember many names of routes but "groove tube" was fun easy chimney. Theres one spot where you hike up into this cave for a ways and then rappel out of this super scenic opening in the limestone down to a great cragging area. Never had so much fun sport climbing! Â Take water taxi from Ton Sai / Rei Leh to town of Ao Nang to shop for fruit, bottled water, junk food, knock off sunglasses, etc as stuff at the beaches is a little pricey and limited. The beaches are geographically isolated so for all practical purposes, you are on an island. Â Don't waste any time on Kao San Road and do your Xmas shopping on your last day in BKK at the HUGE market (I forget its name but it'll be in the book. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bchaps Posted October 27, 2003 Share Posted October 27, 2003 There is a new guide book (King Climbers) put out last november when I was there. I haven't seen it in the states yet, but if you want to borrow it, just let me know. (Unfortunately, I won't probably be going back for a bit)   If you can rough it a bit, here's what $20/day gets ya on Ton Sai. I think the conversion rate was 40baht = $1USD   Room: 200-300 baht/night - Note: you can negotiate rates if you are staying for a while - 2 minute walk from the beach  Breakfast: Great bannana porrage or pancakes at the andaman cafe  Lunch: - skip it and climb  Dinner: 300-400 baht 2 servings of fresh fish off the boat (shark, tuna, sea bass, squid, and kingfish?)  Massage: 250-350 baht/hr  Beer on the beach: 100-200 baht (if I remember correctly)  Incredible sunsets: free!  Naked fat europeans sunning on Pra Nang: free!  Herb is free at the bar too, if you do that type of thing. I hear it's the munchies that get expensive though.    Here's a couple pics for ya. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291019087   Attached is a sunset.   Have fun! bill  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordonb Posted October 28, 2003 Share Posted October 28, 2003 Thanks for the info, we have a good budget for the trip and are not doing the dirt bag climber routine for this trip. We have most of our lodging booked up from input from others that have been there (non climbers). Â I will probably bring my old rope and leave it. It is not so much the expense, but we like to travel light and I don't want to haul a rope for two weeks when we are only going to be climbing for 4 to 5 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted October 28, 2003 Share Posted October 28, 2003 hope you have a great time. Wish I had a couple of weeks to head over there and enjoy the rock and the beaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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