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Stephen_Ramsey

Mount Buckner

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Newbie needs advice on Buckner--

 

Anyone who has climbed Mount Buckner via the north face or north face couloir: is it better to camp on the Boston Glacier, and carry over? Or is it better to camp on the Sahale Arm? Seems like the descent route doesn't go anywhere near the Boston glacier, so camping on the Boston glacier would dictate carrying over, right?

 

Appreciate any info.

 

-Steve

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Stephen_Ramsey said:

so camping on the Boston glacier would dictate carrying over, right?

 

Yes, you'll be decending off Buckner back down through Horseshoe Basin, on the other side of Ripsaw ridge. while this climbs back up to Sahale arm, it goes no where near the Boston Gl. again unless you want to re-climb Sahale to get back to the Boston.

 

I think the common 2-day strategy for this route is camp high on Sahale arm day 1, up and over Sahale, to Boston-Sahale col, down to glacier, traverse Boston Glacier, climb route, decent, back up the arm to camp day2.

 

To be honest, I think that the very long 1 day strategy might be better: up and over sharkfin col, traverse Boston Gl, climb route, decent, get back to Cascade Pass, collapse and snooze a few hours, then head down. Long day, but less distance travelled, less weight carried.

 

Just some thoughts

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Ii is also good to go up boston basin, ignore the boston/sahale col. Go straight up this snow gully just to the right of boston's summit and then descend onto the boston glacier and do a carry over.

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