Ducknut Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Szyjakowski said: NirvanaRidge is not loose if you stay on route. do not take everything you read in guidebooks so literal. FUN CLIMB! Soundz like you've "been there, done that" Szyj. OK, so it's not as loose as I've been led to believe (or led myself to believe ). How are the bolts/pro? Good shape, or marginals? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 i remember one place i had to think twice about going up. Put in another piece and thought twice no more. good bolts..yes. As most PP climbs there is always gravel to contend with....especially after a good rain or the winter. Rap down backside and do quick tr of the cool 5.8(9?)chim that is there (cant remember the name...anyone?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Empire State? Or is that the 5.7+ chimney? I know the one you're talking about, can't remember the name either. Thanks for the bolt beta on Nirvana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Another for Saggitarius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 We should start a "Saggitarius scares us" support group, we could all do stuff like go climb Godzilla together and come up with excuses why we don't want to do Sag today ("umm, yeah you forgot your big cams too, huh. Oh well next time") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 sobo said: fern said: <zap> ...Most of the routes mentioned it seems are one people have already tried and by some measured failed on. I posed the question more in mind of routes that scare you too much to get on ... yet. Although you can envision the day when you WILL be ready for the challenge. Are there any routes that fall into this category? Reasons? <another zap> Nirvana Ridge, GCT, Peshastin Pinnacles. Within my abilities, but I'm just too scared off by the guidebook's description/topo of loose and crumbly sandstone and ancient bolts. Saw a 10-yr-old lead it a coupla years back, and it started a "peer pressure fester" in my head (if that KID can do it... mindfuck ensues...). One of these days, I'm just gonna go out there and get it out of the way. the bolts arent old anymore, they've been upgraded. send it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 Travis said: You're not alone in having the Grim Reaper as a 'not yet' climb. It also appears on this page. 'The Dirty Dozen: Climbs that scare me' page. A weird cosmic convergence occurred on the Squamish Buttress a couple of weeks ago. My partner and I were waiting on the ledge below the crux with a bunch of other parties, and the author of the dirty dozen climbs was there. I know this because he was wearing the same tights as he was here. Another party included a couple of old guys, one of which turned out to be Neil Bennet; first ascentionist of the Grim Reaper. At this point in my climbing carreer, my 'not yet' list is too lame to publish. I don't think the Grim Reaper is repeatable. I keep asking Neil where it went and the story changes. I climbed with Gordie too last year, on Teetering on the Brink, and that will have to do for me. I could see him and the vicinity of the Reaper in the same view and I could see a lot of talent, still. There are just too many bolts already in the area now which change the psychology of the climb. What kind of idiot does a long runout on one route when a few meters to one side there are plenty of bolts on a different route on very similar terrain? I didn't like seeing the Jeff Thompson route go in, but Neil didn't seem to mind and Jeff moved a bolt placement for him to not encroach on Reaper. Thanks for pointing out that that was Mikey on Squamish Buttress. Now I have my own pics of him. I'd have some of Travis, too, if the battery hadn't failed. Well, I do probably have one of Travis, sitting on the ledge. I've been worried about Wall of Attrition, the pitch that the guidebook calls bold, but someone said it isn't that bad. That's all it takes to turn a not-yet into a tomorrow. Well, and a partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 Andy Look out for the last two pitches of Wall of Attrition (from where everyone stops, to Bellygood) If you dont like a hold You can just throw it over your shoulder And see what kind of impact it makes on your belayer!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 iain said: You expect answers to this thread with all the testosterone floating 'round here? There's some routes on Mt. Washington down here in OR that I hesitate to climb, but one day will... nice topic though Same goes for Jack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted June 6, 2003 Author Share Posted June 6, 2003 Dru said: If you dont like a hold You can just throw it over your shoulder and if you do like one especially you can take it along to use again later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 Fejas said: iain said: You expect answers to this thread with all the testosterone floating 'round here? There's some routes on Mt. Washington down here in OR that I hesitate to climb, but one day will... nice topic though Same goes for Jack... There's only one other winter line on Jack that appeals to me, that east face up to the crawl. The rest are just terrifying death routes put up by insane lunatics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 iain said: Fejas said: iain said: You expect answers to this thread with all the testosterone floating 'round here? There's some routes on Mt. Washington down here in OR that I hesitate to climb, but one day will... nice topic though Same goes for Jack... There's only one other winter line on Jack that appeals to me, that east face up to the crawl. The rest are just terrifying death routes put up by insane lunatics. summer time, iwanta hit the north ridge, alot of ups and downs over mini choss piles, but i bet its doable... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 I am scared of Up From Despair at Crag X. Despite the fact I have heard it is easy for 10c there is something about how thin it looks and the "tenuous liebacking" phrase that makes me look and go elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 you crazy fejas. there was a line in that nick dodge book that goes up the east face from the jack lake th, it connects with the north ridge and there was a photo in the book of it, just sickening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 I have never been on route from that side, and would just like to go check it out... If I have to retreat, so be it, but just so I know for myself that its death defying... I've read of routes that where supose to be difacult or advanced, but turned out to be cake walks, so i guess I just don't know till I get a good look at it for myself... I'll let ya know before I go tim, that way when ya get the call to come rescue some dumb fuck on Jack you'll know its me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.