fern Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 mostly I find retro-bolting debates to be ... but it seems to be the flavour of the week. lets side step does anyone have a not-yet route? Something that taken strictly by a YDS number is within your reach yet the quality of pro, or quality of rock or other commiting factors causes you to pause and say "not yet"? Perhaps for you a future adventure would be lost if someone decided to do some Hilti-renovation. I have a few such routes in mind, for example Grim Reaper on the Squamish Apron which involves long traverses and runouts of slab climbing and was first put up onsight, lead bolted with stiffy 70s era boots and no doubt some kine courage. It went a couple of years before being reapeated and even now has probably only seen a few dozen ascents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 You expect answers to this thread with all the testosterone floating 'round here? There's some routes on Mt. Washington down here in OR that I hesitate to climb, but one day will... nice topic though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 the edge put up by tobin sorenson at taqhuitz. more like a not ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 the joust redm&ms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 oh yeah and the Turkey Monster, Menagerie after reading the 40+ pin description in Dodge's book, probably not never Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 sagatarious.. i have lead it but never clean and it is within my abilites there is just someting about going for the anchors!!!! i am toooo pumped to place gear so i just go!!!!!!! resulting in some whips!!! it always cause me to pause!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Endgame/Rockfellow group/Cochise Stronghold/Arizona Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Full sagitarius or the short version? Took a pep talk from TimL and company to psyche myself up to pop over the roof, but it wasn't too bad...hahahaha the beauty of peer pressure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 (edited) Me too with Sagitarius (just to the anchors below the roof). I don't know why I'm so scared of it! Thin Fingers too. Sagitarius is still onsight potential (the kind of "onsight" where you greedily devour beta, but have not yet physically been on the climb type of onsight). Thin Fingers I have toproped into submission many a time. Took multiple whippers on Zoom the other day. I guess that's one it will take a while to get enough courage to go back and try again. But I gotta now! Damn skeleton climbs! Oh yeah, I never did top out on Zoom (booty alert). Edited June 5, 2003 by chucK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 (edited) You're not alone in having the Grim Reaper as a 'not yet' climb. It also appears on this page. 'The Dirty Dozen: Climbs that scare me' page. A weird cosmic convergence occurred on the Squamish Buttress a couple of weeks ago. My partner and I were waiting on the ledge below the crux with a bunch of other parties, and the author of the dirty dozen climbs was there. I know this because he was wearing the same tights as he was here. Another party included a couple of old guys, one of which turned out to be Neil Bennet; first ascentionist of the Grim Reaper. At this point in my climbing carreer, my 'not yet' list is too lame to publish. Edited June 5, 2003 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Good point, fern! Not every route must be considerate of the lowest common denominator. Besides, if retro-bolted, the name would have to be changed to Not-So-Grim-Anymore Reaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bDubyaH Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 second pitch of heinous cling...puts the sport back into sport climbing, really hard to get back on after the huge fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 RuMR - that was funny watch you lead upper Sag. You sent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 fern said: mostly I find retro-bolting debates to be ... With your gift for diplomacy and tact, I can see why you find it all so boring. (That and the fact that we don't seem to see very many new points being made, I suppose.) lets side step I've climbed the Davis Holland/Lovin Arms route three times, and never properly climbed that last pitch. Ran out of steam at the top of the 5th pitch once, sleazed off to the left once, and my partner led the seam to the right of the proper 6th pitch the third time I was there. Right now I wouldn't make it up the first five pitches so I'm not yet ready to grapple with that last one, but one of these days ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 chucK said: Me too with Sagitarius (just to the anchors below the roof). I don't know why I'm so scared of it! Thin Fingers too. Sagitarius is still onsight potential (the kind of "onsight" where you greedily devour beta, but have not yet physically been on the climb type of onsight). Thin Fingers I have toproped into submission many a time. Took multiple whippers on Zoom the other day. I guess that's one it will take a while to get enough courage to go back and try again. But I gotta now! Damn skeleton climbs! Oh yeah, I never did top out on Zoom (booty alert). hahaha...actually i was talking about going over the roof...Darryl had a stupid statement in his book that its .11b unless you're short then its .11d!! HAHAHAHA...head screw... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 TimL said: RuMR - that was funny watch you lead upper Sag. You sent! yeah no doubt...i'm a biiiiiiiiiig chicken shit!!! I'll bet you guys were rolling in the dirt laughing! I was squeezing that granite so hard i'd bet juice was coming out of it (or my fingers)....hahahahahaha gooood times... We need to get out, Tim!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 It sounds like there's a couple of sprayers around here who have Online on their not-yet list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 bDubyaH said: second pitch of heinous cling...puts the sport back into sport climbing, really hard to get back on after the huge fall. I tried to do the upper pitch onsight back in 1994...nobody told me to exit stage left when the climbing deadended...I pushed about 4 moves straight up...got stuck, sat there chicken-winging saying something to the effect of "Oh shit, shit shit shit, not good, shit shit"...tried reversing...too pumped, tried going back up then it became "uhhhhhhh, this is not good...this is not good, fuckfuckfuckfuckfuuuuuuuuck" total meltdown,...i knew i was gonna peel for probably 3 or 4 minutes before it happened...that is the woooooorst feeling...i pulled my 108lb wife to the first bolt where she banged up her hand pretty good...I personally was so gripped that i gritted my teeth hard enough to break two molars (it wasn't the fall) before i came off...man, in retrospect that was hilarious and the fall was clean.... Took 6 more years to go back and send that sucka!!! Man, that felt good...i didn't rehearse, got in the mode and sent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted June 5, 2003 Author Share Posted June 5, 2003 I don't really understand what you are saying mattp ... was that meant as a slam? Anyways, perhaps I should have qualified that it is the internet debating between strangers that I am disinterested in joining, and this is generally true for any 'controversial' topic. I am happy to discourse on the issues in person, especially if the venue is a pleasant approach to a climb or as second choice a nice pint in the sun. Perhaps some day you and I will have such an opportunity to learn more about each other and our differences and commonalities matt. Most of the routes mentioned it seems are one people have already tried and by some measured failed on. I posed the question more in mind of routes that scare you too much to get on ... yet. Although you can envision the day when you WILL be ready for the challenge. Are there any routes that fall into this category? Reasons? Travis, Mike Hengeveld is a good friend of mine, if you want to borrow some of those tights I can ask him for you, he has lots and is always happy to spread the colour . Also there is a picture of Neil Bennett in the photo gallery here on another route on my not-yet list "Clean Corner". I'll have to do a little research on Index to find out why these routes are such stoppers for you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Another vote for Sagiscarius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 fern- i said the joust and red m&ms they make me scared...so i go home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 (edited) Hey Fern... you are right about the topic...but these were on the "not-yet" list to do at one time and definitely provided me w/ some memories... Routes can sometimes get a mythical nature for a person and get soooo built up in that person's mind that its an enormous deal for them personally when they send... My current one is the first pitch of east face (not the whole pitch, just the first part to the purple)on the monkey...man, i wanna send that thing, but i'm intimidated for some reason...takes good gear, from what i understand, but man, i always find some lameo excuse to NOT walk back there and try it... Too many routes at Eldo to name... Edited June 5, 2003 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 3 summers ago my climbing partner and I did a classic George Lowe 5.9+ in little cottonwood canyon called S-direct. It's 2 pitches of extremely runnout friction climbing that was bolted on lead in the 70's, located on a hanging slab about 1000 feet above the highway. We climbed 1-pitch slab routes all summer (up to 5.11) just to prepare for it, and I still almost fell on my lead WAAYYY above the last bolt. Still probably the greatest coup of my climbing career. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 fern said: <zap> ...Most of the routes mentioned it seems are one people have already tried and by some measured failed on. I posed the question more in mind of routes that scare you too much to get on ... yet. Although you can envision the day when you WILL be ready for the challenge. Are there any routes that fall into this category? Reasons? <another zap> Nirvana Ridge, GCT, Peshastin Pinnacles. Within my abilities, but I'm just too scared off by the guidebook's description/topo of loose and crumbly sandstone and ancient bolts. Saw a 10-yr-old lead it a coupla years back, and it started a "peer pressure fester" in my head (if that KID can do it... mindfuck ensues...). One of these days, I'm just gonna go out there and get it out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 NirvanaRidge is not loose if you stay on route. do not take everything you read in guidebooks so literal. FUN CLIMB! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.