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dkemp

just returned from Kahiltna Glacier

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My pals and I had a good ol' time in Alaska. Followed the masses up the Kahiltna as far as 9800' where we occupied a site for a week.

 

Climbed Mt Capps from Kahiltna Pass - short but sharp ridge with a couple crevasse problems. A nice summit with great views of Peters Basin and the West Buttress. Hmm, I think we were the afternoons entertainment for the spectators at 11,000.

 

Bronchitis required a rest day in bright windless sunshine - damn I hated that. My friends took the opportunity to hike up to 11,000 to visit a pal unexpectedly encountered during the hike up the lower Kahiltna. To my surpise, traveling the lower Kahiltna Glacier is quite a social thing.

 

Next day, still not breathing so good, we climbed the face of Kahiltna Dome to attain the NE ridge but, alas, weather was crashing so we bailed down without the summit (run away!!!) This face is mostly around 50 degrees and goes with running belays off solid pickets - bring a hammer to pound 'em in. Some icefall hazard.

 

Determined to try again, we started out next morning by observing the warning flag lenticular over Denali. We hiked below Capps to attain the three mile long North East Ridge and climbed to the summit of Kahiltna Dome - nice ridge, great views when you get them, a few crevasse puzzles - recommended! thumbs_up.gif (a few running belays - definitely bring crampons). Descended in winds and whiteout.

 

The ensuing storm ate up two and a half days of our short visit - its bound to happen, eh? Took turns shoveling every two or three hours to keep the tents from being buried. As it was, one tent was totally buried by drift during one two-hour period! All part of a great Alaskan experience.

 

With skies clear again we hiked back to Kahiltna International with intentions of climbing Francis. Weather forecast said more storms coming so we flew out a day early and left Francis for another time. frown.gif

 

Wow, lotsa people on that route, and a whole lot of them international climbers. I did run into some friends but didn't find Ryland, et al.

 

I'll post some photos once they return from development.

 

Didn't accomplish everything we meant to on this quickie but got a couple of summits and had a great time together. Alaska rocks! rockband.gif

 

Doxey

 

 

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Sounds very cool.

 

You mean there are other mountains in alaska besides denali!?!? wink.gif

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