Jump to content

Forbidden Peak Beta


Desey

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 10
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

JoshK said:

You really gonna depend on somebody else's opinion for those decisions?

 

And which route?

 

West ridge could be done in boots with no pro, just a few long slings and a hip belay or two. But most people bring some stealth rubber to combat the severe pucker factor. It all depends on your climbing level. Consult Beckey, pick a route, and go from there.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The short story:

I was up in Boston Basin this weekend with a buddy and intended to do Forbidden's North Ridge. The snow is very soft and made for MUCH postholing. We camped on the moraine ~6500' and tried Sahale the next day instead. We postholed our way to Boston-Sahale Col, turning around just above the col due to ENORMOUS cornices lining the ridge to the summit.

 

Other observations:

The west ridge gully was completely snowed up still with big schrunds to swallow you whole. There is an enormous avy debris pile that extends hundreds of yards from the S Face. It would be work to get up there. I'm not sure what's holding the snow in the gully, cause it was really warm up there and we heard and saw a number of releases during our short stay.

 

The warm temps had the snow in horrid conditions to climb. We weren't quite ready to tackle such a big project (N. Ridge) in those conditions and I was feeling sick so we went for Sahale instead. If you read this far though, you already know we turned back.

 

I'd imagine the snow needs a few weeks to bake down and consolidate. Got to see the N Ridge from the climbing we actually did and it looks like it'd be a LOT of fun, though quite a BIG day. Random question from someone who's never been on Forbidden: are there tolerable bivy sights on the peak itself in the event of slowness (for whatever reason)

 

Comments in the climber's log at the Marblemount Station said the West Ridge was rather snow free at this point, although the soft snow made the gully look positively unappealing to me.

 

Special note to Desey: Take all this beta with a grain of salt. Your actual experience may vary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to carry over, N. Ridge has some great bivy pads where you first hit the ridge, and you could easily stamp out some decent accommodations on the snow sections of the ridge proper. We went in a day from below the Quien Sabe, and I found it to be a rather long day. I'm sure others have found it a reasonable roundtrip. Realistically assess your own speed and decide from there. Great route though, I highly recommend it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forbidden W. Ridge is a great climb when in shape. We simulclimbed or did running belays the whole climb and in boots too. Not difficult and very fun. It is the descent that takes some time. Rappelling isn't a good option because it is so low angle. We downclimbed the whole route. Make sure you are solid on your downclimbing skills, or it could take some time. One of my favorite alpine climbs though. grin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Desey said:

what is Forbidden like right now. Do I need rock climbing shoes or just stick to boots. What kinda pro ??

 

Like they said, it depends...

on the route

on your abilities

 

I've only done the W Ridge and the NW face of the N Ridge, both with boots only. And I'm not all that incredible of a climber.

 

Regarding bivis, there's always something...some near the summit just below on the W Ridge, and plenty of opportunity at the notch at the base of the W Ridge...plenty of room at the top of the NW face of N Ridge

wave.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boots work fine for Forbidden/W Ridge. One thing about the west ridge is that you climb along the crest; when you hit harder sections you can usually bypass on the left (north) side. However, there's snow on the left side in early season conditions so you're forced to do the 5.7 crux on the ridge; you can bypass this crux later in the season and then the climb is no harder than 5.3 or 5.4. The 5.7 crux goes just fine in boots, but only if you're used to rock climbing in boot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The approach was in really good shape (and somebody else just posted about it too for the W Ridge). The avy/slide area is crossed around 4650' (altimeter read 4600' on the way up, 4720' on the way down) but the trail is reasonably obvious. Consistent snow didn't start til across the slide path and well up into the woods. Finding/following the trail was fairly easy.

 

I never saw Buckner as I didn't feel comfy approaching the edge of the cornices, and didn't see much avy action on the east side of the north ridge. There were some cornices on it though.

 

Best of luck and enjoy!

 

CK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...