Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
telemarker

Protection preference

Recommended Posts

The more I climb on lead, and inevitably the more I fall, I have come to appreciate good pro. Just a question to ask here: When climbing granite, would you rather fall on a bomber nut or a bomber cam of similar size? Do you feel better climbing above nut placements rather than cams?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

personlly that is too much thinking for me...i would rather just climb. and know that you place good gear. because all gear you place, should be well thought out and bomber.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, that's obvious. I'm just wondering, when you come to a spot where you want to place a piece, is your first instince to look for a good nut placement or do you reach for the cam??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i look for the best placement.

 

sometimes it is a nut, sometimes a cam.

 

i dont prefer one over the other.

 

i used to think that i should save cams for cruxy placements, but have since quased that idea.

 

what piece fits best??

 

bigdrink.gif

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess in my learning curve, I was always so intent on plugging up cracks with cams, completely neglecting stoppers. However, nowdays, I find myself looking to place stoppers first. I've fallen on stoppers and none have pulled, even some marginal placements. Cams, twice they've pulled on me (no doubt due to pilot error). But I think there's more room for error with nut placements than cams, in climbing granite.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
telemarker said:

would you rather fall on a bomber nut or a bomber cam of similar size? Do you feel better climbing above nut placements rather than cams?

stupid fucking shit. would you rather get your ass kicked by three women or two dudes and a little girl? guess what dipshit your still getting your ass kicked. fall on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are you trying to say lummox? The you fall, you've already lost the game? It doesn't matter what saves your ass?

 

I'm with erik. You should put in the piece that works best. Putting in the right piece will give you the best protection for a fall, regardless of what that piece might be. Here's an example. Up on Bathtub Dome there are mostly horizontal cracks (that result from weathering of the stone?). Oftentimes, there is a constriction where you can slot a big nut and there isn't any way it is going to come out. In this case the nut is way better than the cam. A cam would just walk in and tip out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the feeling you get when you can see that the piece you placed physically cannot move through the space below it. Therefore I like a solid nut or hex placement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trojan Enz smileysex5.gif

 

otherwise nutz in constrictions and cams in parallel cracks and TRICAMS everywhere thumbs_up.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
iain said:

I like the feeling you get when you can see that the piece you placed physically cannot move through the space below it. Therefore I like a solid nut or hex placement.

Best feeling in the world! Okay, the second best, but who's counting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nuts and tricams are what I grab first.

But the idea of the two dudes and the little girl sound good too. fruit.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lummox said:

stupid fucking shit. would you rather get your ass kicked by three women or two dudes and a little girl? guess what dipshit your still getting your ass kicked. fall on.

Lummox, you sound pretty ignorant. If you are not falling, you are not pushing it. Falling is a good thing, in that you are pushing yourself to grow expanding your comfort zone and learning how to fall safely, etc.

 

Tele, I vote for nuts. Their security depends on simpler, more predictable physics. Although the best placement depends on what the rock gives you to work with, of course.

 

As a side note, I am willing to bet that the cam placements that you have had fail, were small cams. Their expansion range is smaller corresponding to a smaller margin for error in placement. It helps to place them in the narrower half or their range and to set them with a really goood tug or two ( as you would a more marginal nut placement) in the expected direction of loading.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Retrosaurus said:

lummox said:

stupid fucking shit. would you rather get your ass kicked by three women or two dudes and a little girl? guess what dipshit your still getting your ass kicked. fall on.

Lummox, you sound pretty ignorant. If you are not falling, you are not pushing it. Falling is a good thing, in that you are pushing yourself to grow expanding your comfort zone and learning how to fall safely, etc.

 

Tele, I vote for nuts. Their security depends on simpler, more predictable physics. Although the best placement depends on what the rock gives you to work with, of course.

 

As a side note, I am willing to bet that the cam placements that you have had fail, were small cams. Their expansion range is smaller corresponding to a smaller margin for error in placement. It helps to place them in the narrower half or their range and to set them with a really goood tug or two ( as you would a more marginal nut placement) in the expected direction of loading.

in my opinion youre confusing training with climbing.

i prefer not to fall on climbs. somethin about good style and shit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree that you don't want to be falling when you are way up on some multipitch far far from the trailhead. Take your falls when you are at the crags one pitch up and 1 minute from the road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
catbirdseat said:

I agree that you don't want to be falling when you are way up on some multipitch far far from the trailhead. Take your falls when you are at the crags one pitch up and 1 minute from the road.

 

 

you mean like when you are leading Air Guitar at Vantage huh rolleyes.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If God's happy with you then nuts or cams will both work

And if he isn't well, neither one's going to keep you from your "date" down there

 

But when I go into the backcountry these days I find my protection needs are mostly from the anim,als - two and four legged.

 

a .357 is plenty enough protection for them, and light enough to lug around. but if they made a Titanium one I'd thank God and buy it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lummox said:

in my opinion youre confusing training with climbing.

i prefer not to fall on climbs. somethin about good style and shit.

I don't train.

I climb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Placements being equal, I always prefer passive pro. I use a lot of cams, but if I have the stance and the placement I will always try to slot a nut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trask may be a sinner, and judging by his whoring and drinking he is below average in that category, but at least he has a sense of humour, and know's whats right in politics. Whereas I am going to pray that the Lord brings you something better to do than worry about "who's who". Here are some you probably haven't considered yet: Erik is DFA. Iain is Allison. And Gappertimmy is Jon. Amen.

 

See you in church tomorrow. If the preacher shuts up early, I might even get to go climbing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dru said:

catbirdseat said:

I agree that you don't want to be falling when you are way up on some multipitch far far from the trailhead. Take your falls when you are at the crags one pitch up and 1 minute from the road.

 

 

you mean like when you are leading Air Guitar at Vantage huh rolleyes.gif

 

hellno3d.gif Can't believe you went there Drude...Damn that's taking a man's woman....and his beer madgo_ron.gifpitty.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
plexus said:

Dru said:

catbirdseat said:

I agree that you don't want to be falling when you are way up on some multipitch far far from the trailhead. Take your falls when you are at the crags one pitch up and 1 minute from the road.

 

 

you mean like when you are leading Air Guitar at Vantage huh rolleyes.gif

 

hellno3d.gif Can't believe you went there Drude...Damn that's taking a man's woman....and his beer madgo_ron.gifpitty.gif

 

i figured it would be a good way to point out even falling at he crag is not "safe" and should be avoided whenever possible. a reference to the Kropp case is merely a cited instance of where a crag fall was demonstrably not safe. lots of others in ANAM. dunno what's so low about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×