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catbirdseat

Getting Stuck Cams Unstuck

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wasnt it on Poison Ivy Crack???

I remember doing Ski Tracks Crack one October and it was full of mashed metal, I think there were 4 beat up Friends in there, fully hammered on by idiots didnt know how to clean

They were gone the next spring.

 

With old school friends you can actually undo the hex nut holding the head together and the whole thing falls apart. then you pick pieces out of bottom of crack and reassemble!!!

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iain said:

seems that your two problems of stuck cams and sewing machine leg could be combined for a positive outcome. if you get a stuck cam, just climb a bit higher and get really sketched out to jackhammer the sucker out with your heel

 

see there is a positive side to everything.

 

 

that some funny shit

yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif

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A trick i've used a couple of times (last was on P.A . at Index, score one green Jr. Camalot that some tool got stuck) is to flip the cam INTO the crack, w/ triggers going into the crack. Then grab the axles w/ your nut tool, clip a sling on it, and yank...the action of yanking it out causes the cams to try and retract instead of camming and the worst you have to deal with is friction between metal and rock...takes some finagling to flip it, and you have to line up your "track" line, but then it works like a charm....

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Booty cam for the masses on Great Northern Slab-leftside, Index. Last seen yesterday. I do like those spaghetti-strap climbing shirt/bra for the women! smileysex5.gif

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That Greenie Camalot JR is still waiting for a lucky suitor up on the Tooth too.

 

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Pencil_Pusher said:

Booty cam for the masses on Great Northern Slab-leftside, Index. Last seen yesterday. I do like those spaghetti-strap climbing shirt/bra for the women! smileysex5.gif

 

in the last three times i have been to index i have gotten a brand new metilious 4 cam, 3 nuts, a sling, two wiregates, and a tri-cam... i love this place! BOOTAE! moon.gif

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Fence_Sitter said:

Pencil_Pusher said:

Booty cam for the masses on Great Northern Slab-leftside, Index. Last seen yesterday. I do like those spaghetti-strap climbing shirt/bra for the women! smileysex5.gif

 

in the last three times i have been to index i have gotten a brand new metilious 4 cam, 3 nuts, a sling, two wiregates, and a tri-cam... i love this place! BOOTAE! moon.gif

 

Remember...The bootie gods giveth, but they also taketh. Don't gloat too much Fence.

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ehmmic said:

Fence_Sitter said:

Pencil_Pusher said:

Booty cam for the masses on Great Northern Slab-leftside, Index. Last seen yesterday. I do like those spaghetti-strap climbing shirt/bra for the women! smileysex5.gif

 

in the last three times i have been to index i have gotten a brand new metilious 4 cam, 3 nuts, a sling, two wiregates, and a tri-cam... i love this place! BOOTAE! moon.gif

 

Remember...The bootie gods giveth, but they also taketh. Don't gloat too much Fence.

 

yeah, but i dont think i am gonna leave like 8 pieces in three trips to index my gain to loss ratio is huge... and that si what it is about! cool.gif

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Fence, next time all hell breaks loose and you get caught in a bail situation where you have to leave gear, you can think about all those booty pieces you have scored and it might not hurt so bad to leave the gear behind.

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Pencil_Pusher said:

Booty cam for the masses on Great Northern Slab-leftside, Index. Last seen yesterday. I do like those spaghetti-strap climbing shirt/bra for the women! smileysex5.gif

isn't that the purple thing thats not even worth the effort, its been there since at least last summer.

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catbirdseat said:

Fence, next time all hell breaks loose and you get caught in a bail situation where you have to leave gear, you can think about all those booty pieces you have scored and it might not hurt so bad to leave the gear behind.

 

 

no way, its better to downclimb than to bail off gear. "at least if you fall solo downclimbing you will die with a full rack" name the famous climber who said that!

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"Well, you might live longer, but at least I'll die with a full rack." -Craig Smith, arguing about rappel anchors with his partner who wanted to leave another stopper.

 

Though I don't know who Craig Smith is...

 

ahhhh Gooogle, where would I be without thee.

 

 

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catbirdseat said:

Fence, next time all hell breaks loose and you get caught in a bail situation where you have to leave gear, you can think about all those booty pieces you have scored and it might not hurt so bad to leave the gear behind.

 

Bullshit, I'm way too cheap to rap and leave gear. Better to tough it out or climb out of it.

 

Rapping off jam knots rockband.gifs

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catbirdseat said:

Fence, next time all hell breaks loose and you get caught in a bail situation where you have to leave gear, you can think about all those booty pieces you have scored and it might not hurt so bad to leave the gear behind.

 

first of all i concur with the peeps alpo and drul... second, 1/2 of this shit was on GNS or toxic shock or way moderate shit like that... why the hell would you bail on that? if'n ya really had to, french free dat shit! confused.gif

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Formaldehead said:

Wrap a sling around the trigger wire, connect the sling to your harness, and weight the sling.

Next, get behind the cam lobes with your nut tool and work the cams one by one, until it pops out.

 

this is what works for me... i have never found a cam this didn't work on... escept for that one on GNS... the purple black diamond... that thing is a lost cause... i am gonna bring up the drill tomorrow and get that thing out...

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Dru said:

BUT who was CraIg Smith quoting huh? the_finger.gifwave.gifwave.gifwave.gif

 

I give up, who?

 

BTW: There is/was a #1 Camalot behind a flake on the second (I think) pitch of Orbit. Go get it!

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Fence Sitter, that effing cam is still in GNS! WTF? I thought you were going to remove it? The cam that beat FenceSitter... never thought I'd live to see the day confused.gif

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Pencil_Pusher said:

Fence Sitter, that effing cam is still in GNS! WTF? I thought you were going to remove it? The cam that beat FenceSitter... never thought I'd live to see the day confused.gif

 

it is too deep to drill out (which was my plan) I cant think of a way now (without damaging the rock) any ideas? i am headed up there today.

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"Next, get behind the cam lobes with your nut tool and work the cams one by one, until it pops out...."

This is the way to go. One important attribute needed to be a good climber is mechanical inclination. You can't learn this in the gym. That's why it's important to spend a lot of time following and cleaning before you get on the sharp end.

 

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