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Slide

Southern Oregon rock

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Anyone done any climbing around Southern Oregon? I'm getting out of the army soon and am going to be moving to Ashland. Seen a couple books on routes around there, but thought I'd ask if anyone has any firsthand experience.

P.S. it'll be nice to be closer to Yosimite smile.gif might actually get some big wall in sometime in the next year or two

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I've always wanted to check out Fort Rock. I drove by there before I climbed and remember seeing a tri-cam stuck in a crack. Didn't know what it was back then though, but it looked very climbable. Probably no sport climbs.

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Is that the columnar prow visible from I-5? I've taken a look at that each time on the way to the Valley.

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Fort Rock is basically in the center of Oregon. I only mentioned it because it was the southernmost place in Oregon I know of where someone has climbed. Here is a panoramic shot of it, and here is its location. I have not been able to find any beta on it on the net, but that says very little.

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No, Fort Rock is an Oregon State Monument located approximately 40 miles south of Bend Oregon (off of SR-31). From memory: it's an old volcanic remnant that apparently owes its name to a cavalry contingent using the rocks as a "fort" to ward off an indian attack or attacks in the 19th Century. Since it is a State Monument, I doubt they would allow climbing on it (and certainly not bolting). It's also not all that large--maybe 500 yards across with maximum buttress heights of less than two rope lengths. Some pictures from September 1994:

183087-Fort%20Rock%20I_small.jpg

 

Another photo located here: Fort Rock Breach Side

 

Another photo located here: Fort Rock Breach Edge

5a1a559446a65_183087-FortRockI_small.jpg.8a6c2c0249f331517863a4c9acb0edcd.jpg

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Hey Slide, I'm moving to Ashland in a month, we should hook up! Also going to Yosemite for a month through June-July. See ya!

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klenke said:

No, Fort Rock is an Oregon State Monument located approximately 40 miles south of Bend Oregon (off of SR-31). From memory: it's an old volcanic remnant that apparently owes its name to a cavalry contingent using the rocks as a "fort" to ward off an indian attack or attacks in the 19th Century. Since it is a State Monument, I doubt they would allow climbing on it (and certainly not bolting). It's also not all that large--maybe 500 yards across with maximum buttress heights of less than two rope lengths.

 

I always figured it as center of OR, but whatever. You may be right about the climbing, but I certainly agree with you on bolting. Like I've said, when I went there I saw a tri-cam stuck in on of the cracks, so someone HAS climbed there. However, that tells us nothing about wether it's permited today. I suggest calling around before you touch it, for as Klenke points out, it is a State Monument; I just checked.

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It depends on how far south you mean, because there is a lot of rock in SW Oregon, and most of it is fun. I have climbed at the Callahans, the Honeycombs, the Youtklut Pillars, Cougar, and the Columns(in Eugene,too many times) and they're all awesome. Most areas are not very big, but they sure are fun. I suggest picking up "Rock Climbing Southwest Oregon" by Greg Orton.

Enjoy! rockband.gifthumbs_up.gif

Of course there's also a ton of local stuff around Bend, just ask the locals.

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