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What do you think of this setup?


cracked

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I think it will depend on what you want to climb. With AT boots your are limited to walking and frontpointing. Forget any french technique or the rolling of the ankle to get more crampon contact. I hear people like the new Dynafits. I have climbed basic routes in my old version Denali's but wouldn't want them on anything super technical that would require gear. Others may have a different opinion. It may be I just haven't found the right boot for it yet....

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It's all I've used in the randonee market, so I can't really give good comparisons, but it definitely is not like climbing in plastic mountaineering boots. It is very stiff and locks your whole lower leg. It is not that much heavier than a lot of plastic tele boots though. I'm intrigued by the scarpa f1 but have not seen one yet. that might be a great climber, or could be rotten at both skiing and climbing. unfortunately skiing and mountaineering are opposing goals. You want to roll your ankle to french on steeper ice, but that is exactly what you don't want when skiing.

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cracked said:

But on the skimountaineer.com site that Amar guy says he has hiked 5 miles one way with those boots. What do you guys use? Oh, I'm not interested in tele cause I want a boot I can climb in.

I've hiked 2-3 miles with my Lasers - it's possible, but not pleasant, and you have to crank down the forefoot so as not to bash your toes to oblivion. My left big toe still has some weird tingling/deadness weeks later.

 

I run Laser's, 555's & Mito's - which work great for volcano's in spring, and isn't too bad for the approach.

 

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iain said:

It's all I've used in the randonee market, so I can't really give good comparisons, but it definitely is not like climbing in plastic mountaineering boots. It is very stiff and locks your whole lower leg. It is not that much heavier than a lot of plastic tele boots though. I'm intrigued by the scarpa f1 but have not seen one yet. that might be a great climber, or could be rotten at both skiing and climbing. unfortunately skiing and mountaineering are opposing goals. You want to roll your ankle to french on steeper ice, but that is exactly what you don't want when skiing.

The F1's plastic cuff is as tall in the rear as the Laser/Denali, etc. so I doubt it'd climb much better. Dynafit had a laceup plastic (the MLT4) boot made just for climbing - you might want to check that out.

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I'll try hard not to call all these fine cc.comers pussies, but that being said... wink.gif

 

I'm on Denalis, Freerides and 10.EXs for all around b/c and volcano skiing.

 

I've happily hiked in (part dirt, part snow) to the base of the SW Chutes of Adams from the Morrison Creek trailhead, and then gotten up the next morning, put crampons on them, and french stepped my way up the crunchy yumminess, only to click in, edge the rimey top (good control with those boots!), carve the softening middle, and surf the slushy bottom.

 

The assertion that you can't hike in stiffer AT boots or can't crampon properly is a donkey dick lie laugh.gif. I admit, it's not as compfy as a mountaineering boot, and no, you can't move your ankle as much, and yes, I wouldn't try mixed climbs in them. But put a Thermofit liner in there, and they can be used for just about any one day ski descent we mortals might want to do.

 

Not saying that I'm all tough or anything either - I'm a big baby, and gapertimmay can vouch for that. Not saying you should do multi-day stuff in them. But if you're looking for an AT boot that gives you the closest feel to an alpine boot yet still allows touring and hiking... I think you're on the right track.

 

The ONLY caution I have is that the XT has a more forward lean, and is slightly stiffer than the red Denalis. That could, I do admit, make a difference...

 

P.S. I have, actually, heard really good things about the latest Dynafit AT boot, but I had a shoddy experience with Dynafit bindings once, and tend to be unfairly biased against all of their stuff as a result.

 

Edited by Cletus
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Cletus said:The assertion that you can't hike in stiffer AT boots or can't crampon properly is a donkey dick lie laugh.gif. I admit, it's not as compfy as a mountaineering boot, and no, you can't move your ankle as much, and yes, I wouldn't try mixed climbs in them.

 

It's not a can't - as I said my toes have yet to recover from the week before lasts trip up Adams (hiking from 1-2 miles past Wicky shelter to Morrison & from Cold Springs to below the South summit). A weird dead feeling in the toes isn't good for long term use.

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Yo Paul,

Stay away from that guy Amar. He's a bad influence, and he worships the devil. I've seen him hike in those Denalis. Get some Garmont G Rides. Yeah, G Rides with chrome spoke 15-inch knock-offs, double-tuck diamond velure, and a big kicking amp with some subs in the trunk. Word.

Peace,

Sky

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skykilo said:

Really though,

I've unintentionally hiked many miles in my G Rides, 'schwack to the max and making low 5th class moves down waterfalls (don't ask). I came out without my feet killing me, boots still intact and skiing like champs.

 

Yeah, I read the trip report....

 

Thanks for the input, all, but I ordered the above setup, for $725 it was too good to resist. Now I can spend all my time complaining that if I had bought the Dynafits I would be skiing SO much better.. evils3d.gifevils3d.gif I realize that all skiing well takes is equipment, so bring it on, Sky! evils3d.gifevils3d.gif I am so suck.

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Uh, how about just loosening the straps? Let the ankle roll a bit inside a floppy boot, strap tight for the downhill? Heh, I have hiking boots that are so small I have to tie them all funky to hike comfortably, but boy do they climb well.

 

Shoe laces... magic things... solve every problem, like duct tape!

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