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"Steep snow and ice"


Juneriver

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I gots a question for y'all.

When checking out a route that is described by Beckey, Nelson or whoever as having steep snow and ice, say 45-55 degrees, what do you pack for gear?

I've only been on a few of these routes and I've learned a)when on steep snow w/o a rope I'm worried about a fall and already thinking about the tough downclimb, and b)when I'm roped, I'm worried that my partner is going to fall and yank my ass down the hill.

In my experiences, the conditions are always dictating the style of climb, but I always wonder how much stuff to bring to be prepared.

So with a generic route description, what do you plan for? What do you bring?

Rope? Pickets? Ice Screws? Second tool?

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for a general mixed alpine route....lets say the ne butt of chair i will bring 4 screws two 17s, one 22 and another shorty or mid shorty. one picket per person and my bd experts only rope. a few pins and some, cams yellow alien(cause dats my boy) 1" and 2" maybe a #11 hex and a grip o neutrinos. oh and those little widget dealys. and second tool only if it looks like it will need it, thoughif oyu are up on your poon technique the second tool sometimes get burdomsome. oh yeah and the rastafarian bivi kit cause ya never no when your going to die!

i personally only rope up if there are actual pitxches to be led or if you got to trudge a glacier(for the most part).

climb to your comfort level. and move as fast as possible. i go by moving moving moving..bonk...sesh gingsing tigers milk moving, moving moving moving bonk and repeat.

remember i am sketchy

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a dozen snow flukes tongue.gif" border="0

no actually, for a 45-55 degree snow route, i usally solo if partner is Ok with it as the speed is safety on n faces with rockfall etc. if alpine ice may be present at that angle I take about 6 titanium screws and a picket or two, and 4-5 pitons.

that rack worked great for this: 646_snowyowlhalf.jpg

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I was on a climb of Shuksan this past spring when the gully up the summit pyramid was filled with 45 to 50 degree snow/ice. Of nine climbers, 6 decided to climb the gully roped up, placing pickets along the way, creating a kind of half-assed running belay. Took these 6 climber nearly an hour to ascent the gully--I climbed the gully solo in 20 min. In my opinion, if someone on one of the roped teams had fallen, the pickets wouldn't have done shit and all on the rope would have suffered serious injuries. Going solo, not only did I not risk others' health, I was able to keep to a minimum the time I exposed myself to rock/ice fall in the gully.

As far as gear, I brought with me two screws, a picket, a few stoppers and cams, and a rope--just in case I came upon a place where I didn't feel comfortable climbing on and maybe didn't want to try and downclimb. The gear I brought with me was minimal and didn't add much weight. grin.gif" border="0

[ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: E. Hobbs ]

[ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: E. Hobbs ]

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at the angles you're describing, I typically carry a 60cm ice axe and a hammer with an alpine pick. The alpine hammer works fine as my second tool if the surface gets firm enough (or my partner is unstable enough) that I want one. I rack lightly - often one screw and a picket per climber - just enough to anchor a belay at both ends of the rope - and if the surface is soft, I most often just belay off the axe hammered in as a picket, or t-slotted. Whether to rope up or not depends on the team. If one partner is significantly stronger on poons & tools, try "short-roping" with the strong climber in the lead. This technique allows you to move almost quickly as you could solo, while still remaining anchored to the surface (snow, ice, or rock). Your question specified snow/ice, so I'm not addressing the possibility of needing additional rock hardware...

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to the angles you are describing, I typically take to an axe of the ice of 60cm and a hammer with an alpine selection. The alpine hammer very works or like my second tool if the surface obtains me enough signs (or my partner is quite unstable) to that wishes one I to torment light - often one screw and one pole by trepador - just to assure one enough belay in ambo extreme cord - and if surface to be smooth, I the more often as soon as to moor axe to hammer inside like one pole, or t-to groove. If to the cord for above or it does not depend on the equipment. If a partner is perceivably more fort in poons and tools, attempt " I cut-roping " with the strong trepador in the component terminal. This technique allows that you move almost quickly because you could solo, whereas still he is remaining insured to the surface (snow, ice, or rock). Its question specified snow/ice, so I am not treating the possibility of needing the additional physical dowry the rock...

shocked.gif" border="0 cut-roping?? physical dowry??

[ 12-17-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

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