slaphappy Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 fleblebleb said: If every route is listed at least twice in Bruce's book, why do we need two sets of guidebooks for the Exits? We don't. It's a turf war, Bruce is steppin on Burdo's toes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 slaphappy said: fleblebleb said: If every route is listed at least twice in Bruce's book, why do we need two sets of guidebooks for the Exits? We don't. It's a turf war, Bruce is steppin on Burdo's toes. Regardless of what anyone thinks about the politics of the guidebook situation, 2 things are obvious: 1) Exit 32 is in need of an updated guide, and 2) the early bird gets the worm so the two Bruce books will hurt Burdo's offering when it comes out. Then there's Smoot's guide and the underground guides..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 chucK said: Here's some hyperbole related to Exit 38. I was just out a Darrington the other day thinking back about climbing at Index a couple of weeks before and I thought, "Shit!! These crags around Seattle, they got some KILLER views!!". Think about it, Index, Darrington, Static Point, Icicle Creek, Mt. Eerie, even Vantage, they all got some rawkin' views!!! But Exit 38? Most of the time you're in buggy second-growth brown lifeless jungle. Maybe, if you hike all the way up to Bob's wall, you can look out through the slash at another clearcut above over an Interstate Freeway. Maybe it's about climbing and not the Views If I want to do a lot of hikeing to climb slab or crack I go to Levenslab If I want to reach up and pull down hard I go to North Bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 When it comes to guide book authors, think about it. What have they done for climbing. Have they put up routes, Have they given you new climbing areas through previous guide books? Smoot, Bruse or have they stolen beta from old guide books (check out black market exit 38, it does not exist but was copied in Smoots book) Can these guide book authors actually climb most of the routes and give first hand beta? I for one would prefer to buy my guide book from a climber that puts up routes, has climbed most of the routes . Not just some one with a camera and a computer. What's next: slected climbs in the North West by DICKHEAD Oh yeah I can feel my walet getting fat and my ego pumped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Hey Dickhead, what's up with not accepting PM's? I gots a question for ya. and true enough on some of the lame authors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 richard_noggin said: When it comes to guide book authors, think about it. What have they done for climbing. Have they put up routes, Have they given you new climbing areas through previous guide books? Smoot, Bruse or have they stolen beta from old guide books (check out black market exit 38, it does not exist but was copied in Smoots book) Can these guide book authors actually climb most of the routes and give first hand beta? I for one would prefer to buy my guide book from a climber that puts up routes, has climbed most of the routes . Not just some one with a camera and a computer. What's next: slected climbs in the North West by DICKHEAD Oh yeah I can feel my walet getting fat and my ego pumped Here's my response to your assessment: But I still wish the right book was out in a more timely fashion. But then we're waiting and waiting for the right book from the right author at Smith Rock too..... these things just take time I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 I'm not one for click'n the RAT/ NARK (notify Mod) button and after getting a few PM's from Rock cops I don't do PM's any longer, if you got something to say it has to be up front. From your previous posts I can tell your a Levenslab climber , tell Vick that new guide rocks and the FA list with the route discription is way cool That walk to the special spot was longer than I expected but the Javelin was well worth it . The really good climbs in Levenslab can be spread out but they are well worth the hike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 richard_noggin said: I'm not one for click'n the RAT/ NARK (notify Mod) button and after getting a few PM's from Rock cops I don't do PM's any longer, if you got something to say it has to be up front. From your previous posts I can tell your a Levenslab climber , tell Vick that new guide rocks and the FA list with the route discription is way cool That walk to the special spot was longer than I expected but the Javelin was well worth it . The really good climbs in Levenslab can be spread out but they are well worth the hike. True, true , they are well worth the hike. The Javelin does rock! I'll let VK know your positive feedback. question is: Awhile back you said somethin about a "secret" crag you had been visiting behind a friends property. Is it Nurse Rock perhaps? You also said somethin about a hard crack route that blanked out in the middle that might need a bolt, is it in the Icicle? Is it that route at Nurse? If so, has it been led? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Sorry slap that's not the secret spot If I told you It would not be my special secret spot and if you knew I would have to kill you! For a good giggle see related tread under spray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 uhhh, thanks there Richard... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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