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dalius

Anyone done Shuksan North Face recently?

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Was looking to get on this route soon and was wondering what conditions were like. A quick search 'round here didn't reveal anything.

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You might try calling the ranger station at Glacier. Their hours are limited (weekends only or something like that) until summer. Based on general weather trends and snowpack this year, conditions ought to be very good at this point, unless you are there on a warm day which would increase the wet slide risk. Let me know if you find anything out.

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Based on my experiences with the rangers at Glacier I would not call them, for any reason, ever. They seem clueless in the extreme. If you do call, then make sure you're talking to a climbing ranger.

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Don't bash rangers! They have feelings too! At least they don't climb in big groups!!! How else should they act???

 

(sorry, should be in spray. feel free to delete this post.)

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Sweet report man, nice job. Question for ya...is the price this time of year really worth it as a climb objective? I want to do it late in the season, when it's an icefall full of alpine ice. It seems this time of year it would be mostly upper-moderate angle snow (which was obviously better for your object...skiing). Is that about right?

 

It seems from your pics that you guys traversed over very high beneath the nooksack tower. The one time I tried it we got on to the icefall lower down. Probably easier your way in the winter, easier our way in the summer.

 

-josh bigdrink.gif

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I think the icefall has plenty of alpine ice right now, but it's probably more of a hazard to spit a lot of stuff down at you. Both of these last two trips we saw some big releases from the icefalls. Thus the higher route minimizes that danger, but is not without its own. (Did you SEE those cornices?) Yeah, I was thinking it might be fun to go back without the skis late in the summer, it will definitely be more of a climbing objective then; just be ready to make some moves (on chossy rock?) to get around a bergschrund.

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