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tell me about the crux on liberty crack please


augustine

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you mean the roof or the loose block?

 

roof is weasy with a bolt where ya need it.

 

loose block is doable with the pull of a few pieces.

 

you should just go out and discover it for yourself.

 

have fun and be safe.

 

 

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If you are worried about the technical aid above the roof, a cheater's stick may get you past some aid placements there if you don't mind hooking some frayed bit of cable that you can't inspect before you weight it. That would be cheating, though.

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Cheater's stick on Liberty Crack!?! No way! blush.gif

 

I second Erik and say go out there and discover. I don't think the crux is at the roof though, isn't it more like the aiding between the 2 cracks on the pitch after the roof?

 

Anybody know how often those bashies are known to come out? It seems like it would be a good idea to take a bashie or two and throw a hammer in the bag just in case you get there are they're gone or you rip one out.

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the crux may be the yellow rotten rock thru the small roof with the bad pin and bolt above the slab high up on the route. at least half of the bolt shank is visible and the pin flexes and dumps oat meal in your mouth when you yard on it. that thing is a lotto.

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if you have some offsets, the second aid pitch is no real problem. the third pitch has manky fixed gear, but you can just move off them quickly, then to a good cam crack. i thought the rotten block was fine, but the belay above the rotton block is three button bolts. there is a shallow thin crack above the rotton block that stays in the corner and goes up over a three foot roof. a slab move or two below and at this roof, i thought this was the crux. this will certainly be the crux if you don't use long runners on this pitch, since it moves back out of the corner after the little roof and there can be major rope drag problems, and some slighly flaring cam placements (but easy climbing). then you have a nice ledge for the last technical pitch. this route is really fun and is easy in a day, especially if you fix the first two.

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Liberty crack is the easiest climb I've ever done.

 

The roof is cake.

 

The A3 above is A1-.

 

All the free stuff can be pulled through.

 

The block looks geologically loose, but better than many other things I've climbed around. It too is cake.

 

I'd rate it Grade IV 5.7 A1-.

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Sloth_Man said:

I remember the pitch after the roof going easy on cams. I don't remember any bashies. They shouldn't be neccesary.

 

I think there's fixed bashies. That pitch is "scarier" than the lip b/c there's multiple moves on fixed manky gear, but really really straight forward. The lip is a bit more strenuous but never far above a solid piece.

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