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catbirdseat

Sewing Machine Leg

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I've decided SML has little to do with fatigue and everything to do with fear (or suck as Dru calls it). Fear causes adrenaline to be released into the blood stream. It causes the muscles to want to fire. If they are not moving, they twitch like a Jack Russell terrier.

 

"Stimulates alpha- and beta-adrenergic receptors. Increases heart rate, myocardial contractility, automaticity, conduction velocity. Increases systemic vascular resistance via constriction of arterioles. Increases blood flow to skeletal muscle, brain, liver, myocardium; decreases renal blood flow by 40%."

 

So eliminate fear and eliminate SML. I think intense and focused concentration is a good way to eliminate fear. That and don't climb routes that are too hard for you (said before by others).

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catbirdseat said:

 

So eliminate fear and eliminate SML. I think intense and focused concentration is a good way to eliminate fear. That and don't climb routes that are too hard for you (said before by others).

 

1. Intense focused concentration is such a key element of climbing that you could probably drop half the other "techniques" you've been taught, put your efforts into IFC, and be climbing better than you were before.

 

2. Anyone who says not to climb routes that are "too hard for you" is either not interested in getting better, ever, or is some kind of gumby who is jealous of anyone who climbs harder than they do, and thus dismisses climbing harder as some sort of waste of time. DO get on routes that are "too hard for you", and you will discover that soon those routes are no longer so hard. Cha-ching!

 

thumbs_up.gif

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I have no problem top roping routes that are too hard. I have a greater problem leading trad on routes that are too hard. I have fewer reservations against it on bolted routes, which is why I think sport climbing is great training.

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I believe that if you want to progress you should focus on your weaknesses. It sounds to me like one of your weaknesses is getting gripped while trad climbing. Sport climbing is just going to avoid that obstacle.

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I can get gripped on sport climbs if it get's hard enough.

 

This weekend I was perfectly comfortable leading 5.8 trad face climbs, but got gripped on a 5.8 crack climb. Quite obviously, I have to focus for the time being on cracks. It would be cool if I could find a crackmeister, like erik, who would be willing to take me out and show me some crack climbing technique.

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Head down to the UW Rock and ask for "Coach". Bring a girl or some beer with you.

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chucK said:

Head down to the UW Rock and ask for "Coach". Bring a girl or some beer with you.

 

Sound advice. thumbs_up.gif Note that the beer is not for you.

 

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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

1. Intense focused concentration is such a key element of climbing that you could probably drop half the other "techniques" you've been taught, put your efforts into IFC, and be climbing better than you were before.

 

This may sound silly, but can you define or elaborate on what you mean regarding Intense Focus Concentration?

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Carolyn,

 

"IFC" means knowing exactly what you are doing while climbing; being very deliberate about every motion you make.

 

Mental dialogoue would be something like this "I am placing the inside edge of my left foot on that little ruggosity there and once I place my foot there I am not going to wiggle my foot at all." "Now I am transferring weight over that foot". "My weight is now over that foot". "Now I am reaching up with my right hand and grabbing that snaf.gif-shaped hold...." etc.

 

Practice climbing precisely, deliberately, staticly, and smoothly, and look at your feet when you place them. Don't let them wiggle as the rest of your body moves. Practice this on really easy climbs (4-5 steps below your max) so you won't be distracted by technical or physical challenges. Avoid lurching movements by repositioning, transfering weight, or using intermediate holds.

 

Strive to keep your body in conservative positions while climbing. That is, with straight arms, not "locked off", and with your weight centered over your feet or "nose over toes".

 

Congratulations on the first lead. Keep it up.

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Alpinfox said:

Carolyn,

 

"IFC" means knowing exactly what you are doing while climbing; being very deliberate about every motion you make.

 

Mental dialogoue would be something like this "I am placing the inside edge of my left foot on that little ruggosity there and once I place my foot there I am not going to wiggle my foot at all." "Now I am transferring weight over that foot". "My weight is now over that foot". "Now I am reaching up with my right hand and grabbing that snaf.gif-shaped hold...." etc.

 

Practice climbing precisely, deliberately, staticly, and smoothly, and look at your feet when you place them. Don't let them wiggle as the rest of your body moves. Practice this on really easy climbs (4-5 steps below your max) so you won't be distracted by technical or physical challenges. Avoid lurching movements by repositioning, transfering weight, or using intermediate holds.

 

Strive to keep your body in conservative positions while climbing. That is, with straight arms, not "locked off", and with your weight centered over your feet or "nose over toes".

 

Congratulations on the first lead. Keep it up.

 

Thanks alpinfox

THats pretty much what I thought he meant, but I didnt want to assume.

 

Yesterday I was having a conversation with a very experienced climber about this. He reminded me that when you 'think' about your climbing you often make it harder than it needs to be. However, everyone needs to go through the phase where they need to 'think' in order to get that 'in the moment' feeling.

 

I tend to agree with this person....just do it, dont think about it. Obviously certain situations are exempt.

 

I dunno, just some thoughts passing thru my head.

 

cheers! bigdrink.gif

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chucK said:

Head down to the UW Rock and ask for "Coach". Bring a girl or some beer with you.

 

Ohmefuckinggod ChucK that cracked me up so bad you have no fucking idea. Real bad. I was down at the UW rock just the other day with Coach, he had had a couple, started doing laps on guess what crack, good good times.

 

Catturd JUST LOWER THE FUCKING HEEL.

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