Jump to content

Sewing Machine Leg


catbirdseat

Recommended Posts

I had a bout of SML, otherwise known as Elvis Syndrome, while leading a 5.7 pitch at Royal Columns this weekend. My right leg just wouldn't stay still. It wasn't particularly tired, either. I was trying to concentrate on getting a stopper into the crack, but I had to keep shifting my weight back and forth and climbing up and down so I could straighten the leg.

 

What are some strategies for dealing with this problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

CBS,

The best way is to keep shifting your weight back and forth and climbing up and down. If you can get the weight totally off of it and stretch it, it helps. Also important is to breath and GET A F8&*IN' grip. That is, calm down. It seems like just being able to focus a few seconds on the shaking limb is enough to calm down and stop the shaking. It is a hard thing to do when you're wanting that stopper in RIGHT NOW, but you're not going to be placing a stopper either if you're using the alternate strategy of shifting your weight around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah keeping the heels down is good.

 

Yes getting more of your foot to support the weight is key too. But this is basically just a key of climbing in general. Find ways to stick there without taxing yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CBS,

a nice relaxed breath to get focused usually helps, plus it makes placing a piece easier. often times when i am climbing i start to whistle, it helps calm me down for the hard sends, and pisses my partners of to boot. nothing like whistling your way through the crux making it look easy, especially when they don't know that i do it to relax. wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bDubyaH said:

CBS,

a nice relaxed breath to get focused usually helps, plus it makes placing a piece easier. often times when i am climbing i start to whistle, it helps calm me down for the hard sends, and pisses my partners of to boot. nothing like whistling your way through the crux making it look easy, especially when they don't know that i do it to relax. wink.gif

 

Very Nice.

Someone taught me something just this weekend.

Stop thinking about being afraid and JUST 'flippin move.

fruit.giffruit.giffruit.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
catbirdseat said:

fleblebleb said:

Ya easiest way to get rid of it is to not climb hard smirk.gif

You should know. You practice what you preach. smirk.gif

 

The jibe was not unexpected, but considering its origin its nature certainly was. If you still have sewing machine leg then you don't have the technique for climbing intermediate routes, let alone hard ones. But sure, I don't climb hard either.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...